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  2. Kallek

    Ohm specs hi-range Ar3a 1974-75?

    Buongiorno Giorgio! This is wonderful news! Nr 2 would according to my comparisons be the right one! If you also have one of the small round bricks ho hold the wire in place (i guess), that would truly be awesome! I'll send a PM with all the details! Ciao! This AR-forum is truly awesome!
  3. Today
  4. Thank you AR55 and to whomever puts stuff in the library: The above pdf should be archived.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Attached is the booklet that came with my AR-98Ls'. Recommendations for speaker placement are provided on page 3. I have listened to them placed on the floor and on 12" tall stands. Personally I think that they sound best when placed on the stands. AR-98Ls_Instructions_for_Installation_and_Use.pdf
  7. frankmarsi

    HEIRLOOMS?

    An excellent reply and well spoken. I could go on however, what you and I have spoken about rests with the younger generation as we both know they are the makers of the future. The fate of our pleasures and necessary responsibilities we have learned rests with them. And as I have stated, I will go on and continue to enjoy myself as I've learned to appreciate the grand efforts of others before me that have led me to what I realize today. My willingness to enjoy music and all of its meaning that has meant so much to man through-out the ages will not become lost on my watch. I can only hope for a future where others retain the pleasure of music and other gifts that have brought us to the present and mean so much as one of the better aspects of mankind. Knowing history will always be a key factor in our continuance as a species. FM
  8. Thanasis Papathanasiou

    HEIRLOOMS?

    I'm afraid that the widespread appreciation for music has in fact been diminishing. Fewer are interested in music with "musicality", with respect for form and rules, with a sense of purpose. We involuntarily bear witness to a prevailing preference for profit and/or fame over the music and its substance and meaning. And I fear that this phenomenon, which we have been witness to over the past few decades, extends to much more than just music. There is simply too much commercialization and not enough interest in the art form and its significance to our very existence. This has led to the parallel diminishing appreciation for the ways, or methods, if you prefer, in which music is reproduced. Therefore the lack of interest in "vintage" stereo equipment from the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s, which many as well as myself consider the "golden age" of music and of its reproduction. I do not condemn the current younger generation for its lack of appreciation of this most noble of art forms and its proper reproduction. They have been raised to place an inordinate value on technology in every form, rather than to strive for the use of technology to truly improve all aspects of our lives. Regrettably, I believe our current society has strayed from those boundaries which provide for the sense of balance which we as humans need so very much in order to excel and be content. Although this saddens me as well, especially considering the wealth and technological accomplishments of our current society, I retain the faith and conviction that this, too, is but a cycle, however long in duration, which will pass. It has always been so during the course of our civilized existence. As in the past, there will always be the minority which appreciates and preserves these accomplishments of our civilization out of appreciation and devotion, and this minority in fact becomes the caretaker for the future generations which will inevitably follow us and seek to rediscover what we have been so fortunate to have experienced. And hopefully create even more beauty through music and through its reproduction. Personally, I accept this reality. Furthermore, I feel deep satisfaction and a sense of comfort that we exist. That we are more in numbers than we realize. And that ours is both a pleasurable and noble endeavor. I would not have it any other way. Live every day nurturing your souls with music, played the right way, my fellow travelers..... Greetings from Athens.
  9. Giorgio AR

    Ohm specs hi-range Ar3a 1974-75?

    Hi Kallek, I can give you 1 terminal nut, I am attaching 2 photos with 3 original nuts of different years , all three slightly different, so you can compare yours and choose the one that suits you best (just ask me if you want 1 - 2 - 3, I keep them in the same position as the photos!). No cash request, I will only ask for shipping costs (registered post service). You can safely email me a private email. Greetings
  10. Giorgio AR

    AR woofers surround reinforcement

    Thank you for your technical answer, my curiosity was due to the fact that this ring on the surround I think appeared for the first time on the AR3a woofers with ceramic magnet and remembers the ring (of different material) placed on the external periphery of the woofer cone with Alnico previous magnet and cloth surround, I attach a photo with this ring highlighted
  11. greyeyezz

    New ADS owner here, question

    I have extensively researched this topic and the general consensus is to leave them alone. I will abide.
  12. I have been searching the library for AR guidance on AR98 speaker placement. Specifically, if it is on the floor should it be against a wall? Or if it is raised from the floor should it be away from walls? The rear of the speaker has a floor/shelf toggle switch. Does anyone here know where I can find the guidance supplied by AR? I did find some Villchur speaker humor and a bit about design philosophy buried in a 1961 article. On the art of speaker placement On the purpose of an AR speaker Aadams
  13. Kallek

    Ohm specs hi-range Ar3a 1974-75?

    Thank you all for the good inputs! Today I bit the bullet and made the orders to continue my restoration. This included: €35 Foam surrounds and glue from Goodhifi.com $55 Fabric 18 count lambswool from 123Stitch.com £10 0.07mH Jantzen Air Core Wire Coil AWG18 from hificollective.co.uk €73 HiVi Q1R 1-1/8" Textile Dome Tweeter Q1R from soundimports.eu One thing I'm currently missing is 1 terminal nut... Maybe someone have one to spare?
  14. Tunedguy57

    AR 4xa or AR 6?

    @ra.ra About 4xa I wrote "someway unlucky". And IMO it was, I agree with you about strategies of AR for this model. Personally I prefer the sound of 4x: more smooth and natural human voices. I don't want criticize the Allison's tweeter, actually a beautiful one. About the 6 different performances: even if I do understand that nowadays can be nice comparing and listening different versions, I judge somewhat uncorrect from a serious speaker-maker selling different products with the same name.
  15. Tunedguy57

    AR woofers surround reinforcement

    IHMO the presence of a glue ring is a normal consequence of assembling procedures, partially automatized. Thickness of the paper of cone from coil to edge normally decrease, and there is no practical need of an heavier edge. Instead, it's desiderable a lighter one, to prevent dynamic shock of the cone surface, and breaking-up phenomena.
  16. DavidR

    A pair of AR-3 fell into my lap this week

    You can get Lacquer Thinner at Home Depot.
  17. lARrybody

    Ohm specs hi-range Ar3a 1974-75?

    This is definitely the cloth you want to use on your 3a's. It is so close to the original material, except it is even nicer. You might want to check cross stitch suppliers in the EU. Good luck with your restoration. Just remember that they love good clean 4 ohm power. The more the better.
  18. Last week
  19. JKent

    Ohm specs hi-range Ar3a 1974-75?

    $100 for a pair of AR-3a's in even fair condition is a steal! Congratulations! Since you're in Europe and shipping can be expensive, I think your plan to use the Hi-Vi (are they Swan over there?) tweets and just hold onto the originals makes sense. There are instructions somewhere in these pages on how to hook them up with the proper inductor. That 18-count "lambswool" linen we buy from 123 Stitch is made by Wichelt and may be available on your side of the pond. Maybe you'd want to let us know the "long list" of things you're ordering from Vintage AR. Larry is an honest seller and he knows his stuff but some of what he sells are off-the-shelf items you may be able to find within the EU at a lower cost. Just a thought.
  20. Kallek

    Ohm specs hi-range Ar3a 1974-75?

    Thanks for the input from all of you. I have indeed downloaded the guide - it's excellent and I'm currently following it for troubleshooting. Since the basses where out of surrounds I didn't have the guts to plug them in just yet. The pair have never been repaired before (at least in my opinion) and I do want to keep them original if possible - but maybe not at whatever cost (I've never heard a pair of AR's before). Since I live in Sweden postage is another factor to add to the account. I already have a long list of things that I'm planning to order from vintage-AR (Ebay). I really don't know how much I can spend to break even if I decide to sell them in the future. On hifishark they are listed for $800-1300. I paid around $100 for them and they are in good cosmetic condition but could need some new grille-cloth and a light refinish with some 600 grit paper and boiled linseed oil. The Hi-Vi options sounds tempting for a start - I can even find the tweeters here in EU for about €30 /piece. I can always keep the originals and maybe restore them later or if I sell them I can send them with the speakers for good measure. So many options! I hope that the AR3a could be a good replacement for my Sonab OA-14 (Swedish speaker) and/or DCM QED's (American - so i guess you guys know about them). The funny thing is that nor AR's or DCM speakers are that common in Sweden, I really don't know why I'm all of a sudden have two pairs of American speakers As a EU Citizen i really thought I was going for the Tannoys - I guess that have to wait a couple of years! I'm really looking forward to the restoration - i just love bring old good craftsmanship back to life and (sort of) save the planet.
  21. JKent

    Ohm specs hi-range Ar3a 1974-75?

    Welcome Kallek I have little to add beyond Roy & Aadams excellent advice. The question you need to ask yourself is "How much am I willing to pay for authenticity?" The Hi-Vi replacement (which Roy perfected) works very well and will give you a lot of listening pleasure for a cost of maybe $60 or so for 2 tweeters and the necessary inductors (and as Aadams pointed out you can sell the originals and probably break even). Chris's rebuilds, which Roy and others have praised as being excellent will cost you about 3x that price. If you plan to sell the speakers I'd go with the rebuilds but if plan to keep them and enjoy them you have to make a decision based on your budget and your own opinions. IMHO most people will never hear the difference between the Hi-Vi and the rebuild. btw, you DID download the AR-3a restoration guide, right? You need it. Good luck, Kent
  22. Aadams

    Ohm specs hi-range Ar3a 1974-75?

    I am not the expert here but you did just hear from him. You can reinstall the tweeters or you can fill the holes with blanks. The sound will be about the same. You could also try the proven HiVi tweeter with the added inductor which is a good bit less expensive than rebuild. Your moribund or even dead tweeters are marketable if they are in good physical condition. Adams
  23. Kallek

    Ohm specs hi-range Ar3a 1974-75?

    Thanks for the info Roy, I'll contact Chris. Would you avoid using them at all until fixed or could I try them out on low volume just to se in the make any sound?
  24. swayzeeee

    AR-4x - cabinet repair

    Thanks, Kent. Those pictures are just what I needed to visualize the job. Looking forward to the weekend and getting to work on this...
  25. boreas

    KLH Twenty Two Model 22 Cap Replacement

    To answer the above question, the 22 and 24, plus the 26 are identical and use an 8" woofer and 3.5" paper cone tweeter. (So too did the Model 25 console stereo.) The 17 uses a 10" woofer and a phenolic tweeter. Basically, they're all Model 22s. The 22s were offered as standalone speakers, while the 24s and 26 were the exact same speaker when included with the model 24 and 26 all-in-one systems. The 22s and 24s had conventional binding posts for speaker attachment, whereas the 24 Series II and 26 used RCAs. KLH used three different crossover designs for these. Some used the crossover in Angelo's photo above, others used the type shown in JKent's post and the third type is shown in the photo below. So far I've been unable to figure out date/model points for when the crossovers were updated/changed.
  26. RoyC

    Ohm specs hi-range Ar3a 1974-75?

    The tweeters should read around 3 ohms. Forum member Chris1this1 can rebuild them for you. Roy
  27. JKent

    AR-4x - cabinet repair

    Just make sure it's not the "5-minute" epoxy! Glenn recommended the Finishing Resin https://www.amazon.com/Pacer-Technology-Zap-Finishing-Adhesives/dp/B0084UAPMG/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=z-poxy&qid=1555942939&s=gateway&sr=8-6 It has a 20-30 minute working time, so I wouldn't wait more than 15 minutes to add the sanding dust. Actually, I'll defer to Glenn but I mix the sanding dust in first. That way you can control the mix. It does thicken it, so it will fill in any voids left by digging out the garbage. Or color it with Mixol #22 and just use more epoxy. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/mixol-tint-tobacco-22-20-ml -Kent
  28. JKent

    AR-4x - cabinet repair

    When you clamp the speakers you want to use long bar clamps or pipe clamps with wood blocks. The wood blocks help disteibut the force evenly and prevent the metal clamps from gouging the speaker's veneer. You put wax paper between the speaker and the wood blocks because when you tighten the clamps glue will squeeze out and you don't want to epoxy the wood blocks to the speaker. The 1st shot shows an EMI cabinet I tried to force together without digging out the particles as Glenn describes. It doesn't work. The second shot shows the use of blocks and wax paper. -Kent
  29. swayzeeee

    AR-4x - cabinet repair

    Kent and Glenn, Thanks for the guidance! To make sure I understand everything... I let the Zpoxy sit in the gap for 15-20 minutes before clamping, right. I'm not sure I follow the part about the folded wax paper... after clamping, I press that along the joint to bring the edges together? Why wax paper? Thanks again Robert
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