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Restoring AR's - AR5 and AR2ax


VintageMan

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A small introduction; My name is Norman and I live in The Netherlands.

Starting with vintage audio began some 3 years with a set of vintage Marantz, I then went via Luxman and Denon back to Marantz and Leak.

Currently I'm using the following vintage audio in my living-room (Tannoy Berkeley, Accuphase P-102, Sony TA-E90ES, Philips CD104, TEAC D-T1 and a Sonos).

The luxury I have is that I have a private room where a play with vintage audio:

Marantz 4270 + Marantz 5220 + Dual 1229Q

Marantz 2245 + Marantz 5200 + Dual 1019

Marantz 1060 + Marantz 104

Luxman L58A + Luxman T50

Leak Stereo 70 + Leak Stereofetic Tuner

Currently I'm only using Rogers Studio 1.

Last week I bought a pair of Acoustic Research AR5 from their first owner, complete in original boxes with all the paperwork. Even the receipt for Fl. 1390.00(!) in 1973.

Yesterday I got a second pair of AR5's from a friends father, they work but are in a bad state.

Last but not least I got a set of AR2ax from a friends aunt, they look like new but the surroundings of the woofer need replacing.

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Looking for information on how to repair/restore the AR5 and AR2 back to be used on a daily base I searched Google and ended up here for help and advice.

A special thanks to Carlspeak for activating my account!

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What I'm a looking for?

The surroundings of the woofers need to be replaced, I have someone doing this for me.

He did my Tannoy's, and my IMF's in the past.

The switches on the back of the AR5 and AR2 have issues.

They can be replaced with "original" RHEOSTAT or L-Pad's.

My question is what is preferred and which do I buy?

I've found some on eBay and on local websites hier in The Netherlands or in the UK.

The elco's on the crossovers could also be replaced, like with other audio equipment they age over time.

Which brand do i choose and what else needs or can be replaced on the crossovers?

As for the cabinets; the AR5 and AR2 are in great cosmic condition, almost like new.

Basically because both come from non smoking owners.

The second set of AR5 have stains etc. but the drivers will be used as spare-parts for future use.

Maybe I will restore the cabinets and make someone happy with them.

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Welcome to this forum.

If original rheostats are not in rebuildable condition, L-pads seems to be favored here... see advice Roy has given.

Film caps are most likely way to go with AR2ax, but Falcon http://www.falconacoustics.co.uk/do supply electrolytics for AR5 at tighter tolerances near to you.

Best Regards

Kimmo

PS how do you like Rogers Studio 1... these have bee quite long time on my wish list

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Speaking of Falcon acoustics, you might also consider using these inexpensive switches for tone controls. I have no experience with this product, but it appears to be a viable alternative.

http://www.falconacoustics.co.uk/resistors-ceramic-wire-wound-metal-oxide-loudspeaker-crossover-network/wire-wound-pots-switches/rotary-switch-3-way.html

Not quite sure how the switch might be installed in the AR-5 or 2ax, but here is a thread where it was used in a hybrid speaker using AR-18 components in an AR-4xa cabinet.

http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?showtopic=8011&hl=

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Welcome to this forum.

If original rheostats are not in rebuildable condition, L-pads seems to be favored here... see advice Roy has given.

Film caps are most likely way to go with AR2ax, but Falcon http://www.falconacoustics.co.uk/do supply electrolytics for AR5 at tighter tolerances near to you.

Best Regards

Kimmo

PS how do you like Rogers Studio 1... these have bee quite long time on my wish list

Thanks for the link.

I actualy know them as I bought crossover Replacement Capacitor Sets for my IMF TLS50 and TLS 80 when I had those.

Looking around I did not see any sets for AR.

As for the Rogers Studio 1: I love them!

Great sound, especialy in a smaller room and on normal volume.

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Yes, welcome.

There are a few threads on AR-5 restoration. Here is a pair I worked on last year.

http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?showtopic=8205

Have fun,

Roger

I registered to this forum mostly because I found posts, like yours, with usefull info.

I have no set up the AR5's yet because I need to adjust the layout of my setup so the Rogers and AR's can sit side by side.

The AR5's also came woth the original stands, I'm not sure if they are the same color as the stand sat in a box when I tested the AR5's.

The surroundings are perfect, still original and I'm not sure if the eed replacing but it could be that they are dry.

The post you need to move a lot to get the signal back.

Maybe a cleanup would be enough.

Btw. You remind me of Sam Elliott in a way B)

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Speaking of Falcon acoustics, you might also consider using these inexpensive switches for tone controls. I have no experience with this product, but it appears to be a viable alternative.

http://www.falconacoustics.co.uk/resistors-ceramic-wire-wound-metal-oxide-loudspeaker-crossover-network/wire-wound-pots-switches/rotary-switch-3-way.html

Not quite sure how the switch might be installed in the AR-5 or 2ax, but here is a thread where it was used in a hybrid speaker using AR-18 components in an AR-4xa cabinet.

http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?showtopic=8011&hl=

If the pots are OK I'll just clean them.

Otherwise I'll replace them with L-Pad I think.

I've seen them on eBay and on a UK site and they are cheaper then the RHEOSTAT you can buy.

Plus the RHEOSTAT's now a day have an open back that you have to find an easy solution for.

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Speaking of Falcon acoustics, you might also consider using these inexpensive switches for tone controls. I have no experience with this product, but it appears to be a viable alternative.

http://www.falconacoustics.co.uk/resistors-ceramic-wire-wound-metal-oxide-loudspeaker-crossover-network/wire-wound-pots-switches/rotary-switch-3-way.html

Not quite sure how the switch might be installed in the AR-5 or 2ax, but here is a thread where it was used in a hybrid speaker using AR-18 components in an AR-4xa cabinet.

http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?showtopic=8011&hl=

Yep, can be done but now you are moving into "mod" territory. Not sure that particular switch will fit the space but you can use a pair of single-pole double throw toogles ala post-173498-0-09091200-1424974048_thumb.

Roger

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What I'm a looking for?

The surroundings of the woofers need to be replaced, I have someone doing this for me....

Main issue here is making sure the replacements are as compliant as the originals otherwise you will loose bass response.

Roger

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Main issue here is making sure the replacements are as compliant as the originals otherwise you will loose bass response.

Roger

There is a guy in The Netherlands who is an expert on AR, I've seen his work, mostly on LST's and he does a great job.

He restored my IMF TLS50 and TLS80, even got the Super Tweeters on my TLS80 back to live.

It is 2uurs drive from my home so If I go I'll take 6 woofers with me ^_^

I probably cannot wait on the repairs so I have to drive up there a week later or so <_<

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If the pots are OK I'll just clean them.

Otherwise I'll replace them with L-Pad I think.

I've seen them on eBay and on a UK site and they are cheaper then the RHEOSTAT you can buy.

Plus the RHEOSTAT's now a day have an open back that you have to find an easy solution for.

You can buy the L-pads here at Jukebox Revival in Etten-Leur.

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The restoring of my 3a's is on hold due to other activities, so I haven't used the L-pads yet. Maybe I use the old pots first if they are in a good shape and easy to clean.

I also bought the resitors. I ordered them in the UK at falconacoustics.

Yep, that is where I normally order my parts as well.

I will start restoring both AR5 and AR2ax next week.

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The spafes arrived today and I've just connected and fired up the AR2ax on the Leak Stereo 70.

Needed to adjust the pots a bit to get the Mid and High on the right level (for my ears) and then listing to Disco Classics (Internet station) and some Jazz from my streamer:

I have them on 30cm high open stands and the sound: amazing.....

This weekend my Marantz 4270 returns from a complete overhaul and we'll see how that sounds.

For now I'm absolutely trilled :wub:

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I used small hobby based ultrasonic cleaner. It removed some crud from pots, but toothpaste and tooth brush was probably more effective overall.

I suppose that ultrasonic cleaner is handy if you decide to clean all screws and small parts... you can trow all small parts in bath same time. If you use water and diswasher fluid... don´t let small parts get rusty. Some nickle plated hardware got rusty stains when I let them try on paper.

Best Regards

Kimmo

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I tried it the other way around; horrible.

I guess I'll have to revisit that.

Would it be useful to clean the pots ultrasonically?

I rather keep them as this keeps them original ^_^

What solution or solutions were you planning on using in the ultrasonic cleaner? I imagine it would be very effective with the right solution or a double bath with a burnish in between to remove oxidation which would go something like this: chemical clean, mechanical clean and then preservation against further oxidation.

Roger

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What solution or solutions were you planning on using in the ultrasonic cleaner? I imagine it would be very effective with the right solution or a double bath with a burnish in between to remove oxidation which would go something like this: chemical clean, mechanical clean and then preservation against further oxidation.

Roger

I'm going to ask the guy who restores my Marantz.

Reading between your lines you say that it is not dirt but oxidation that is the issue, which means cleaning them with a brush and so.

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