stupidhead Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 So I finally dug into my 5s that I picked up a while ago. They are consecutive serials 37918 and 37919. Feb. '74? The grille cloths were pretty stubborn as they were glued on every inch of the shelf they lived on. One cloth is in very good shape, the other had a rip on the top edge.Probably be ordering some 1-2-3 stitch material for this, and a couple other sets I am working on!and then there's the woofers which will need new surroundsand a little guidance here please. Should I use the same "filled filet" foams from mcpeak as you use on the 2ax 10" woofers?and then was I surprised when I saw thiswhich begs to answer which terminal is positive? Only this one had the red cross on both sides, the other one only had the cross on the right side in this orientation.and the cabs on these are in real nice shape. Tops and bottoms have the obligatory scratches, but all long sides in very good shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidDru Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Look like great candidates. Did they work otherwise?Where does the 5 fit in the line of AR's? They are 3 ways so how big are they compared to the 2ax or 3(a)?that midrange looks a lot like the one in the 3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Stu,There's been discussion very recently of the unreliable "+" markings on AR woofers but this is a first! Use a battery to test for positive. The + terminal of the battery will move the cone outward.Dave,In between the 2ax and 3a. It's sort of a 3a in a 2ax box with a 2ax woofer. I've never heard them but those in the know say the 5 is VERY nice.-Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ra.ra Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Those look real nice, Geoff, and now I'm really hankerin' for a pair of AR-5's. Yep, Feb. of '74 was the issue date, although the woofer code seems to indicate late '73 on their production. These woofers do take the same foams as the 2ax, and you have the ceramic magnet version that followed the alnico magnet. Still a great and equivalent driver, most probably gauged to the same performance specs.Seems like the Red Cross was doing overtime on your woofer. Just conduct the old battery test to confirm the terminals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidR Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Wow, nice looking 5s. The wood looks really good.2 pluses is not a plus in your case. I'll bet its the terminal on the left.Good Luck with your restoration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owlsplace Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 That's hysterical!http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/uploads/monthly_03_2015/post-170704-0-20061700-1425858556.jpgBoth of mine have the alnico magnets.Compare it to the other woofer and I'm sure you will be fine, or get out your battery. MSound is supplying JBL foams at the moment. I haven't seen the BA foams so I can't advise on that.They look nice.Enjoy,Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoyC Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Nice 5's, Geoff! The serial numbers and square magnet woofer tell us they are later specimens. Only around 50,000 were manufactured.The woofer is the same as the one used in the 2ax, so the Boston FF foam is the best replacement. It fits perfectly, and works great.Msound seems to be carrying fewer and fewer replacements, and no longer sells the Boston surround.As I've mentioned before, it is prudent to always check polarity of AR woofers, even if they are marked! There is no rhyme or reason to the issue. In this case you have no choice...get out the battery. You would think AR would have straightened out the voice coil department by 1974! David...the mid is a higher impedance version (around 5.5 ohms dcr) of the AR-3a mid.Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff_C Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 About the woofer polarity markings - When I refoamed my AR-16 December 2013 (bought new 1977) they had no manufacturer's markings giving a clue as to polarity on the woofer at all. Was it normal to have no markings at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stupidhead Posted March 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Good morning. I didn't get a chance last night to finish this post as it was getting late, and the Bourbon County Stout kicked in!Yes, I found it humorous about the crosses. I will do the battery test for sure. The wood is in fabulous shape so that will be a plus as there will be minimal rehab there, possibly no sanding at all.John at msound has confirmed he does not have any FF surrounds at this time, but indicates he will likely have more when he opens his new e store. No indication of timing. I have a resource for now though, so I will not be derailed!As for did they work, well yes and no, I was able to glean the need for refoam when I bought them, as well as their minty-ness. I hooked one up but was timid about putting any volume to them before cracking them open. Figure I can test each driver independent and do what needs to be done before really "test"ing them! I am always pleased when the speakers are absolutely original, and these cabs in such good shape is only a bonus! Here is a pic of the worst exposed side.and if any sanding is to be done, it will be minimal. I do like leaving character if the cabs are not too bad.Then there is the crossovers. I recall Roger's set, and have struggled looking at resources for caps which seem to be odd sizes, for example the 72. Then I reveal thiswhich is entirely different to Roger's pics! Of course I will open the pots and address any corrosion issues, but I sense these are a quality iteration of Aetna Pollack pots, and will need very little work. The real question is do I need to replace any of this cap arrangement. Are these the "oil filled" caps I have heard referenced a bunch of times? How do you test these while there are wires associated, do I desolder and test the leads unwired? I have read numerous times no need to replace Sprague 4uf caps and that blue cap is Sprague for sure. Alot of rookie thoughts going through my head.Pots even have the black pointers.So let me know which direction I should be headed with these. I will be ordering a set of foams and whatnot within a day or so, and will look forward to your inputs.thanx,Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VintageMan Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Following this with great interest as I'm restoring AR5's as well.atm. they are still in their original boxes but this weekend I cleaned out my own listing room and i will unpack them this week.I love the black pointers, I wished I had them on my AR2ax! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 I love the black pointers, I wished I had them on my AR2ax!I have inexpensive reproductions. PM me if interested.-Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VintageMan Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 I have inexpensive reproductions. PM me if interested.-KentPM. send Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owlsplace Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Good morning. I didn't get a chance last night to finish this post as it was getting late, and the Bourbon County Stout kicked in!Yes, I found it humorous about the crosses. I will do the battery test for sure. The wood is in fabulous shape so that will be a plus as there will be minimal rehab there, possibly no sanding at all.John at msound has confirmed he does not have any FF surrounds at this time, but indicates he will likely have more when he opens his new e store. No indication of timing. I have a resource for now though, so I will not be derailed!....and if any sanding is to be done, it will be minimal. I do like leaving character if the cabs are not too bad.Then there is the crossovers. I recall Roger's set, and have struggled looking at resources for caps which seem to be odd sizes, for example the 72. Then I reveal thiswhich is entirely different to Roger's pics! Of course I will open the pots and address any corrosion issues, but I sense these are a quality iteration of Aetna Pollack pots, and will need very little work. The real question is do I need to replace any of this cap arrangement. Are these the "oil filled" caps I have heard referenced a bunch of times? How do you test these while there are wires associated, do I desolder and test the leads unwired? I have read numerous times no need to replace Sprague 4uf caps and that blue cap is Sprague for sure. Alot of rookie thoughts going through my head.....So let me know which direction I should be headed with these. I will be ordering a set of foams and whatnot within a day or so, and will look forward to your inputs....I had the same problem with a waxed cap stout -- I got really waxed also I am sure RoyC can fill you in on the xover but from what I have heard the Sprague electrolytics were pretty stable.Let me know where you are getting your Boston FF foams from. I need a set.Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoyC Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 <<Of course I will open the pots and address any corrosion issues, but I sense these are a quality iteration of Aetna Pollack pots, and will need very little work. The real question is do I need to replace any of this cap arrangement. Are these the "oil filled" caps I have heard referenced a bunch of times? How do you test these while there are wires associated, do I desolder and test the leads unwired? I have read numerous times no need to replace Sprague 4uf caps and that blue cap is Sprague for sure. Alot of rookie thoughts going through my head.>>Those are all Sprague caps. Oil filled caps had not been used for at least 10 years by the time of your 5's. You have to disconnect them to test them, but they are probably quite usable as is.The pots will need at least some cleaning. After that, and the woofer re-foam, you could be all set to go.Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stupidhead Posted March 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Thanx Roy et al,I am definitely encouraged with this set! Especially after the last 2ax issues with the VC wires sprung! I am sure I can do the battery test easy enough for the 2 cross speaker. What a hoot. Especially after the recent thread about polarity and wiring etc....Roy, your comments on the caps has me still wondering should I test or not and just assume they are good. If testing is recommended I am wondering if I cut the wires say about where you see the tape bundling the wires, and test once wire insulation is cut back on the two leads to cap, and if good and cap left in place using butt connectors and heat shrink to reconnect the wires? The other option is desoldering at one end of the wire(s) and testing and resoldering. I don't believe there to be enough slack in particularly the blue wire to use wire nuts.I suspect these to be high quality components if the rule of thumb is they are still good forty years later and will gladly leave them in place rather than bundling to achieve 72uf for example.I will take pics of the pots once I get to them, work (snow blower sales) has slowed down a bit, so I should be able to spend more time in the shop. They are the metal stemmed version, and I am guessing they are the type with the stacked wipers. Yay.Also need to spend some time on the cabs and grill cloths. The frames are solid by the way.Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoyC Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Roy, your comments on the caps has me still wondering should I test or not and just assume they are good. If testing is recommended I am wondering if I cut the wires say about where you see the tape bundling the wires, and test once wire insulation is cut back on the two leads to cap, and if good and cap left in place using butt connectors and heat shrink to reconnect the wires? The other option is desoldering at one end of the wire(s) and testing and resoldering. I don't believe there to be enough slack in particularly the blue wire to use wire nuts.GeoffGeoff,It is a very good bet you can leave the caps as is, with no testing. Even if they are somewhat out of spec, you won't damage anything by using them. I would deal with the pot cleaning ritual, re-foam the woofers, put the speakers back togther, and see how they sound.Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stupidhead Posted March 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Roy, that is very clear now. Thanx and will do. I suspect it would be prudent to test the drivers and make sure they are all OK before reassembly. Will post pics of the pots after extracting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lakecat Posted March 11, 2015 Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 Those fives look nice! I had two pair built about the same time as yours and kept the caps in. They sounded fine. My pots were not even that dirty so hopefully yours will be no trouble. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DDGP1027 Posted March 20, 2015 Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 The 10" Boston 'filleted' surround is currently available at myaudioaddiction at a very competitve price. Ordered the surrounds this morning for my AR5's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owlsplace Posted March 20, 2015 Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 The 10" Boston 'filleted' surround is currently available at myaudioaddiction at a very competitve price. Ordered the surrounds this morning for my AR5's. Just curious if you asked them what the difference is between BA filleted and the foam they are selling for the ARs? They mentioned they have two types of BA foams. I'm assuming one is not filleted.Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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