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JoeB

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  1. >But, then again, Vern's fusing >recommendations make all this discussion moot should they be >followed. > > >Remember, it's all about the music > >Carl >Carl's Custom Loudspeakers Carl, I agree that a speaker protected by a reasonable fuse is not going to cause a problem, no matter what it's filled with. A problem could only occur with an unfused speaker and extreme abuse. Joe
  2. >What brought me to this is the large number of posts and views >of the brown stuffing post. I thought I'd evaluate some >alternatives to rock wool. I think I've found 1 or 2. For >those of you cleaning or replacing those corroded pots, please >consider throwing out that old rock wool and replacing it with >something more friendly to those cleaned up pots and less >dangerous to work with. > Both fiberglass and rock wool are non-flammable and won't melt at any temperature likely to be found inside a speaker enclosure. Previous posts here indicate that the pots used in AR speakers can get quite hot. Replacing the fiberglass with poly-fill would require evaluating the risks associated with replacing non-flammable fiberglass with a flammable stuffing.
  3. >Hi there; > >I am still referencing an AR-2 speaker system, a single woofer >and dual tweeters. > >I am in the process of changing my mind, a man's perogative, >that I do not, have L-pads, my reasoning follows. > >There is 2 connections, rather than the usual 3 connections >with a typical pot. > >I feel that it now is a lower cheaper quality, maybe, pot with >a lower power wattage rating. > >It would just add resistance to the tweeter's input only. > >Now my question is, does the tweeter's output level start >drooping, as in hinging, from it's crossover point, as the >shaft is turned? > >Or does the tweeters top end start to droop as the shaft is >turned? > >Maybe this is now a simpler question? If I understand your question correctly you are asking what the effect of using an L-Pad with only 2 connections would be. This would be equivalent to using an Aetna-Pollak pot with pin '2' disconnected. By increasing the impedance of the pot/tweeter this combo would probably move the crossover frequency slightly lower. Connecting the L-Pad as an L-pad would, by keeping the overall impedance lower, move the crossover slightly higher. The crossover was designed for the Pollak pot and will work as it was designed to only with the pot or resistors that have the identical electrical effect. There are probably many 'improvements' that can be made to the speakers and crossovers but each 'improvement' or change will change (albeit slightly) the characteristics of the sound. I still like the idea of keeping the speaker/crossover electrically identical to the original since the sound of the original is what I want. Better caps make sense, but the better caps should have the same capacitance value as the originals. A replacement 15 Ohm pot is close enough to the 16 Ohm pot to make no difference and even that tiny difference can be eliminated with a 1 Ohm resistor in series with pin '2' (the low side) of the pot. A stepped attenuator makes sense, but it should have the same electrical charcteristics as the original pot. My point is if you liked the stock speaker, keep it that way. Joe
  4. Carl wrote: >Contrast that era with today's. How many loudspeakers do you >see sold today have similar adjustments? I suspect VERY few. >Driver to driver T/S parameters are relatively more consistent >and thus, designers can tune a crossover design to specific >components during the development process that maintain sonic >output within a very narrow range. >Numerous modern speakers claim + - 2 dB response over a very >broad frequency band. I doubt AR could have done that back >then with a fixed crossover design that had no adjustments. I suspect that the AR-3A (and other AR speakers), when set to the factory settings, were pretty repeatable. I think there were 2 reasons for the pots. First (and most important) to adjust for the room and second to adjust for user preference. The use of graphics equalizers and similar advanced tone controls probably makes up for the lack of speaker adjustability nowadays. Even so, I like the idea of a speaker that sounds correct when hooked up to a dead flat preamp/amp combo. The only way to get that in various rooms is to have the adjustnments on the speakers, just as AR did. Joe
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