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RobHolt

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About RobHolt

  • Birthday 01/23/1966

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    http://www.bakeraudio.org
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  1. The 'S' designated models are about 2dB higher in sensitivity so some care is needed when mixing and matching 8" bass drivers with tweeters. The paper classic tweeters from the 'S' series appear to lack damping compared to the non 'S' versions and the paper looks lighter in colour as a result. This would lower moving mass and give slightly higher output at the expense of response smoothness. The 'S' bass drivers have around 2dB more output in the upper range - one reason why the tweeter series capacitor was reduced from 6uf to 5uf as you need less output from bottom of the tweeter range. I have measured these differences myself but AR reflected the difference in the published specs with S series models rated at 89dBw. Rob
  2. Parts have arrived. Should have them in place over the next couple of days and will report my findings and provide before/after measurements.
  3. Many thanks for the comments. I don't intend to the change the tweeter attenuator, just the filter network. I can certainly try the 4xa filter, though given the 7 and 6 drivers are effectively the same (very early 6 excluded) I would expect the revised 7 to perform much like the mid 70s AR6 but with less low bass due to the smaller cabinet.
  4. Something I'm considering as an experiment, here's why: Over the years it becomes apparent that the classic 2 way paper driver ARs adopted an ultra-simple crossover with just a single tweeter capacitor of around 6uf. One has to ask why, and I can come up with a couple of reasons but primarily I keep returning to questions of cost and simplicity, particularly in the lower priced smaller models. But there is a price to pay IME, since all of the capacitor only 8" bass driver models suffer some upper mid energy excess and cupped-hands colouration on vocals. This is the inevitable result of running the bass unit high, and a less than optimal power response from this relatively large driver operating into the upper mids, then crossing to the much smaller tweeter cone. So I'm wondering if the older designs which rolled down the woofer earlier and crossed the tweeter a little lower were in fact superior from a pure performance POV, though obviously more costly to produce. Therefore, given the AR6 and AR7 in their later mid 70s incarnation used the same drivers, I'm going to experiment with the AR6 type B crossover on the AR7. Anyone else tried this, or interested in the project which I'll happily document with measurements? Rob
  5. Agree with Roy's excellent advice on caps. Sometimes a supplier will select pairs to 1 or 2% tolerance for an extra $ or so. Probably worth doing for a crossover given the modest cost. I would only comment on the connectors and say use whichever you are most comfortable with. I like 4mm banana sockets and plugs as this minimises any risk of shorting, something which can happen with wire into binding posts and screw posts. You can get thin body 4mm sockets so it's feasible to use these while retaining the option of reinstalling the originals should you wish to sell the speakers. Lovely looking set of loudspeakers.
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