Andre Posted January 20, 2015 Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 Hi,I couldn't see the files attachments on my previous post. So I started another one to go with the previous one. André Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted January 20, 2015 Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 To address your questions, in no particular order:I did not do the refoam. I sent them to Bill LeGall (Highly recommended) so I don't know about the cork ring. Roy should be able to answer that. Looking at your xo, the silver color 24uF cap may be good. You could replace it with a film cap (for long life) or test it and keep it. The black PVC caps with red ends should be replaced with film caps. The gray electrolytic could be replaced. I think that's the 100uF. You could test it and keep it if it is still good, but it's pretty old. A new 100uF electrolytic would work or do as I did and use film caps. The yellow 4uF cap is film and should not need replacement.-Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andre Posted January 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 Thanks Kent,I will keep you guys posted as I go along. This might also help other people at a later date. I'll look for brands on capacitors, and come back to you guys, and see what you think of my choices.André Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidR Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 Looking at your xovers I would say they were made after mine. I have the Callins can 100uF and 24uF. All the others are the PVC black with red ends.If you are going to be replacing the caps you can use isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) to loosen/soften the old hot melt glue. Just dribble some all over the glue and wait a few minutes. A small screwdriver will pry it off the board.I believe the 4uF yellow cap is polyester/mylar and should still be good. I had those on a pair of Polk RTA12C I gave to my son. I don't know if it was the tweeter (mylar dome) or the cap but at loud volumes the sound was a horrible blare. I have since replaced those with some AR TSW610s and they sound fabulous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andre Posted January 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 Thanks David, I also have a pair of TSW, but the smaller 210. Very nice sound for a small place.André Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andre Posted January 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 Question,How do you include a picture in this topic, without starting a new one. When you start a new topic, you can attach photos from a tag seen at the bottom of the page.ThanksAndré Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidR Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 Question,How do you include a picture in this topic, without starting a new one. When you start a new topic, you can attach photos from a tag seen at the bottom of the page.ThanksAndréTry clicking on EDIT and then click on Use Full Editor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andre Posted January 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 OK, I will try that next time,Thanks DavidAndré Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briodo Posted January 22, 2015 Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 AndréThose screens and wood cabinets appear to have been really well taken care of. I'm always impressed to see a 35+ year old system where the wood looks close to what it did from the factory. Shouldn't need more than a refresh of the oil finish after you complete the refoam and cap upgrade. Out of curiosity, do you plan to keep the tone control switches in or bypass? I personally have left all mine in but wonder if those old switches will be the weak link in a vintage overhaul. At the time I thought it would be best to leave the system as it was designed and manufactured.I finally realized mine are all set to 0db, so do I really need to leave the switch in there (jumper wire around the switch)?Congratulations on them, a great looking set of speakers.Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidR Posted January 22, 2015 Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 I've been told by people in the know that the switches used in the 91 and a few other AR speakers are rather robust unlike the ones used in the AR9. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ra.ra Posted January 22, 2015 Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 Unlike the often problematic tone-control potentiometers found in earlier AR speakers, it would be the rare instance when a simple two or three-way switch experiences a functional problem. That said, I most always find it beneficial to have some type of crossover control to vary the higher frequency output to suit one's own preference with the particular room acoustics. The 91's are a really terrific speaker, and you should be happy that they include the variable switches. My understanding is that several models of their family offspring did not include this feature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andre Posted January 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 Thanks Brian,I'll leave the three way-switches as they are, no modification. As for the condition, the walnut type veneer has one very slight blemish on top of one speaker, but beside that, all veneered sides and tops, are in perfect condition. The front on the bottom of one speaker, has a small ding that I'll repair with no problem, and a few blemishes on the front facia.As you mentioned, re-foam, and I'm still thinking of a re-cap, the only question is, now or in the future.They belonged to the original owner, a guy in his late fifties. He acquired them in 1981. His reason for selling them, didn't want to bother with an overall, and wanted to go with in-walls speakers, to fit his decor. To each his own I guess. I had been waiting for more than 15 years to have another pair of 91, the wait is now over. Now I'm still waiting for another pair of 10π, hopefully not for another 15 years, I'm getting of age you know. André Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aadams Posted January 22, 2015 Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 Disabling the attenuation switches will convert your AR91 into an AR58s. I can tell you from experience that if you decide to do it you will almost certainly need a 10 band equalizer to throttle the mid range. The switches are good but variable controls would be better and the AR58s has neither.Adams Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidDru Posted January 22, 2015 Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 With the heck is an "Acoustic Blanket" tm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidR Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 With the heck is an "Acoustic Blanket" tm?Its the felt like pad of material around the tweeter and mid. It is there to stop sound waves from bouncing off surfaces around those drivers thus reducing secondary sound waves.............or something along those lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ra.ra Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 Aadams makes a good point about the lack of controls on the AR-58s and the possible need for another device to suit the room acoustics without tone controls. Also, I believe he is correct that the drivers in the 58s are nearly identical to the AR-91, but the particular model that I had in mind was the AR-915, which as far as I can tell, is the European version of the AR-91 - - - exactly same speaker (w/slightly modified x-o) but without the switches.I agree that the switches should remain in the circuits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andre Posted February 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 An update on the AR-91 woofers, and since I needed the practice, took this opportunity to do a few more, AR-18 and two pairs of PSBThe PSB are there to practice the whole process of cleaning and re-foaming drivers. If they turn out good, bonus, if not, no big deal.Drivers cleaning done, and waiting for the suspensions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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