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3a version help


DavidDru

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If there is ever a real good cleaned up version of the labels made maybe they should be made available in the library or something. Although would not want to make them too available.

If you put a small watermark in them that identifies them as re-make then there is no issue as far as I see it.

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So the owner of these 3a's offred to sell them to me for $500. I told him i would pass but if he still has them in the future (if they dont sell otherwise) that might change. UGH! He has them listed on CList for more $.

Man, I don't know if I am being stupid or what on this. I have purchased enough stuff lately and really need to sell off some things.

Yeah, hard to say ... I remember my father saying back in the day he could have bought those for "X" amount of dollars ... ;)

Of course, buying these is only the first part of the equation, as you know, which is why I personally would hesitate as I have three sets of 5's for price of one set of 3's. I have a history with the 5's anyway.

Roger

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No obvious visual flaws in this pair of 3a's, but I certainly understand having too many "project" speakers. Just this morning on a bike ride thru the neighborhood, I had to pass on two very affordable pairs of vintage New England loudspeakers - - - KLH 6's and OLA's.

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I think it will be fairly easy to spot a repo label as the originals use screen printing and the dots tend to block up on the copies.

To me, that's OK. They're on the back so who will see them? In this hobby we are always trying to balance "preservation" against "restoration." If you restore some AR speakers with new capacitors, L-pads, HiVi tweeters, linen grille cloth, reproduction logo etc. why not use a copied information sheet on the back? Better than leaving it blank IMHO.

When I restore KLH Model Eight radios I often have to replace torn or damaged schematics on the bottom with new copies. They look nice. Of course when I sell them I always mention any replacement or reproduction parts.

Just my 2 cents.

Kent

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Kent, send me a copy and I'll see what I can do.

The key to making reasonable repros is that they have to be converted to greyscale, all the background noise has to be removed and then they have to be laser printed on color paper that approximates the look of the aged paper, either yellowed in the case of the oldest models or greyed for later ones.

If we could find a font that closely approximates the logo, it would probably be easier to just recreate them new.

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