RoyC

.1mh would be a good starting point.

Very true...tables will only provide some general guidance. The mechanical properties of drivers are a huge variable.

Hey Frank, These domes have actually been around for quite some time. The output is very strong primarily due to a very compliant cloth roll suspension. The results are more like the AR-11 tweeter or Midwest replacement tweeter than the original 3a type with the foam suspension. If you are looking to "build" a close replacement for the 3a/LST or 2ax/5/LST-2 type of tweeter this isn't it unless it is modified, or a crossover tweak similar to that used with the HiVi tweeter is implemented. As always, these discussions are a mix of subjective impressions and many variables, so the above is not meant to criticize anybody's personal preference. Roy

That comment pertained only to the orange dome AR tweeter. The one you used is available in 4 and 8 ohms, and can be made to work well as a replacement for the smaller black dome AR tweeter.

Oops, sorry Frank...for some reason I thought you were referring to the replacement for the low impedance orange dome used in the models I mentioned above. Roy

The original AR tweeter of this type used in the AR-3, 2a, and early 2ax has a very low impedance. DCR is below 2 ohms. The assembly in the listing is described as having an 8 ohm impedance. Roy

Deepest condolences, Ella. Steve's contributions were indispensable to the foundation and high standards of this forum.

Nice find, Scottie. "...both tweets measure 1.8 ohms. Because they're exact it makes me wonder if the DCR is affected because it's a part of the system when measurrd. is there any of validity to that?" Your tweeters and mid voice coils measure properly. Uninstalled, the tweeters should be around 1.6 ohms, and the mids around 2.5 ohms. System interaction and oxidized aluminum leads can both affect measurements. Roy

The finish appears to be similar to the AR-2 cabinets you are discussing in the AR section. It will be interesting to see what the wood guys recommend. There is no shortage of nasty old KLH cabinets out there.

It appears to be the typical walnut veneer. The varnish/lacquer type of finish of the earliest AR (and KLH) cabinets is more difficult to deal with than the later oil type. It is not unusual for it to become blotchy as it is sanded. The front trim piece is solid wood and will be easier to deal with. It would be prudent to wait for Gene to weigh in before proceeding. I see he posted as I was typing. Edit: and so did you. Roy

Your drawing looks good. Based on Carl's description of the response differences/similarities between the new and original woofer it should work as he described. Roy

I'm very glad you asked that question. I typed in the wrong value (I just corrected it). It is .5mh, not .05mh. Your photo shows that you have the right components. The coil is absolutely necessary! It is not only important for the proper response, but to protect the tweeter. 20uf is a very large capacitor value to use without it.

Good call...The large Industrial Condenser caps can be mistaken for Spragues, but seldom measure as well.

-The woofer's + lead (red) and the tweeter's 20uf capacitor should connect to the cabinet's + input terminal. -The two black leads connect the cabinet's - input terminal to the - sides of the tweeter and the woofer respectively. -The 3 ohm resistor (not shown) is connected in series via the yellow (+) tweeter wire emerging from the junction of the cap and .05mh coil. The resistor can be placed anywhere before the tweeter's + side along that yellow wire. -As shown in the photo, the .05mh coil is also connected to the cabinet's - input terminal along with the 2 black - wires. It is in parallel with the tweeter, which means it is connected to both sides of the tweeter circuit (- and +). Carl was using a new Advent replacement woofer with no inductor. The only crossover components would be in the tweeter circuit (ie the 20uf cap, .05mh parallel coil, and 3 ohm resistor). Roy

Agreed...which is pretty hard to do if one has no experience with either tweeter in the 4x. Meaningless debates based on speculation and conjecture are distracting. The Mods and Tweaks section is probably the only place for this to go.