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gary_wong5

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  1. I converted my AR98LS to "i" version last night. As 2.5ohm is not readily available in Malaysia, I tried 2.2ohm instead as the shopkeeper explained that the difference is only 0.1% whereby our ear cannot hear and differentiate. Is that true? Is 2.5ohm better? No recap is done. Just added in those resistors. The mid and high are now very sweet, smooth and listenable. What I am still wondering is that the the phases of the tweeter are originally inverted: Blue (-), Yellow (+) (different from the LSi X-over). Should I restore the phase? What will happen to tweeter if re-phase?
  2. Mr Kuja, hope that you are still enjoying yours. Recently has some free time to try out the LSi version modification. Could you please be more specific what resisitors you have added, and which capacitor has been removed? And I hope my dear members here give more advice on this, if any. Best regards.
  3. Hi Pete, I have tried out 4, 5 and 6 dB of 4.7K version and finally settled at 5 dB and 6 dB. I also tried switchable 5dB and 6dB set with reference to your DPDT switch. When switched to center off, there is obviously some signal loss but is not an issue to me as I prefer 6 dB of boost. I am using a 40 watt HAKKO Red No. 502 for soldering work, as this http://us.100y.com.tw/ChanPin.asp?MNo=9882 Really went through a hard time to materialize this BSR set for a chemist
  4. Hi Pete, I have put all the components together follow exactly your recommendation. It is my first experience to having such kind of project, boght soldering gun, soldering paste, etc. Hope my skill is not laughable. I connected the BSR to my integrated amp Technics SU-A900MK2 tape loop. Wow, very sweet and warm midrange and the bass extention is geat. No more ears piercing high and I could listen to my Advent/1 for long time. Thank you Pete.
  5. Hi Pete B, I have bought C1 and C2. However the shopkeeper told me that for the R1 and R2, she got to know whether they are 10W, 5W, 2W, 1W, 1/2W, 1/4W5% or 1/4W1%. Please advise me which one should I buy And is the green line in the photo a ground cable? Many thanks! Your recommended info:- Yes it is the 6 dB version from post #41 in this thread: 4.7K Version, these values are for RL = 47K or typically an EPL or tape monitor loop: R1 = 4.7 K, C1 = .0047 uF 6db: C2 = .068 uF R2 = 4.3K C1 can be two .01 uF green mylar caps from Radio Shack in series. C2 can be a .047 uF and .022 uF also from Radio Shack in parallel. Just so happens that I have a good supply of .068 uF, .01 uF, and 4.3K resistors here. I forgot to include them in my rush to send it to you. I'll get them off to you soon. Figured I'd wait to see how you liked it.
  6. Dear Pete B, My Advent/1 high is a bit harsh. Can I apply the mod option for reducing the high?
  7. Hi Kuja, I am keen to upgrade my 98LS's cross-over to Improved version. But I am not expert in electronics. I shall show your schematic LSi to my technician and request him to carry out modification. May I confirm this is the correct LSi cross-over? Kind regards, Gary
  8. I need your constructive advice now! Is it worth to exchange my 98ls' with 9ls' with a top up of US$406 !?? Gary
  9. Hi Minh Luong, Frankly speaking I have no expertise in electronics. But I do guess that those Culver are replacement caps in view of the colour variant. Can anyone else help to verify this? Yes! I have remove the yellow sponge after conducting some trial and error whereby they sound most airy and transparent. There is no sounding problem so far. Actually they sound very much better than my PSB Image 4T. Best regards, Gary
  10. Yesterday, I was free to open up my 98ls' and would like to know: 1) Refer to my attached photo, is the x-over is of original and never recap before? 2.) Some double-sided adhesive tape residue on the plastic grille, so I wonder if there is some plastic foam attached (original specification). I have tried putting some foam around the grill which I could hear more refined mid and bass. Please advise. Regards, Gary
  11. Hi Minh Luong, Thank you for your explanation for LS and LSi. Yes! I saw your name in Sonic Review. I consider myself lucky as still keeping those old magazines. I started hi-fi system in 1993 and only has the chance to listen to and own my Classic 8s' last Spetember. I "addicted to" AR's sound since then, and have had let go my psb and Infinity. Now I have AR98LS, Classic 8 and M-.5 (unidentified species?!) There is AR9LS around me and could be my next target. Please suggest me any other models that are worth collecting. Thanks! Gary
  12. Hi Minh Luong, I am from Malaysia. Are you from Hong Kong? I got my pair from Singapore after long searching out. In fact I have doubt too about the reddish tint (slight) and keep on asking myself why they look different from AR LS brochure. What a pity they are not of original condition... But I really love their performance. How to tell if they are LSi version? The seller said he bought them 7 years ago as used pair from somebody. Probably the first owner is Hongkee or he had ever worked in Hong Kong. As I shall keep these LSs' for like, I thank you for your kind advice on rusty screw. Gary
  13. Thank you for all the advice. Since there is no abnormal sound out from the mid, I shall leave the dent as it is. What is the suitable speaker stand's height for these AR98ls? Kuja, may I know the one shown in your picture? Thanks! BR Gary
  14. Dear All, I bought a pair of AR98ls yesterday. They are really sound great! But I am now confused why my AR98ls' look differrent from the one shown in AR Library: http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/library...series_brochur/ whereby the front face is black colour. Is that my ARs' have already modified by the previous owner(s)? What is the function of the small knob situated above the speaker socket (please see the attached picture)? Can anyone suggest me how to restore the dented midrange driver? Please help! Regards, Gary
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