AR3a Improved - almost

[owlsplace]

...

Comparing them with the AR3a that have also been rebuild the AR3a wins hands down in sound quality.

All drivers work but the AR3a sound more "real", alive.

The "Improved" had a crossover tweak to the midrange from what I can gather otherwise everything else is the same baring deterioration of drivers. Maybe a little equalization is in order

[VintageMan]

The "Improved" had a crossover tweak to the midrange from what I can gather otherwise everything else is the same baring deterioration of drivers. Maybe a little equalization is in order

I have not had any real time to listen to them both in such a way that I can really define the difference.

This because it is freaking hot(!) in The Netherlands and moving such heavy speakers around is to much with this heat.

My first impression was that the Improved sounded more dull then the AR3a.

It will take another week before the temperature will be "normal" again.

[iso]

Maybe you should also swap drivers from 3a to 3a Improved´s and other way too... As Roy has mentioned, condition of drive units will make the biggest difference, which I fully agree.

Best Regards

Kimmo

PS I was told that yesterday it was hottest day ever measured in the UK, I suppose it can not be too far from that in Netherlands. Heatwave is going to be here very soon...

[VintageMan]

Pff, the heat stays on!

While I was listening I remembered that there is a switch behind for A or B.

As it was on B, so I switched it to A (duh!); much better!

Being listening almost for 3Hrs now and I find them very pleasant.

Less harsh (can you say that about speakers?).

Next week the AR3a's are up

[VintageMan]

I've been listing to the AR3a and the Improved for some day's now.

The AR3a are much more detailed, the low is low, you "feel" the bass.

Mids and highs are there and perfect.

The Improved sounds dull, low is not low and there is almost no bass to feel.

Flat is the word.

I think I need some help here

Help!

[owlsplace]

Well, you can start swapping drivers making sure there is a good acoustic seal. If the problem doesn't change with the drivers you can get into the crossovers assuming cabinet stuffing is the same. I think that covers all the possible variables.

[VintageMan]

Well, you can start swapping drivers making sure there is a good acoustic seal. If the problem doesn't change with the drivers you can get into the crossovers assuming cabinet stuffing is the same. I think that covers all the possible variables.

All the drivers work and both cabinets sound the same.

When I place a pipe over the tweeters they produce sound and both pair of tweeters sound the same.

Same goes for the woofer.

It think (feel) it is more a crossover issue.

[iso]

Did you test 3aImproved´s with 3a drive units... and were results same as with original drive units?

Crossovers are different... Tom may know for sure, but I suppose that one reason for Improved model was power handling capability of AR tweeter. If you look at Improved crossover, there is 0,105 mH choke in parallel to tweeter in similar position where AR3a used to have 15 ohm pot. As reactance of 0,105 mH choke is 3,3 ohms at 5 kHz and reactance will rise to 15 ohms (same as 15 ohm pot at wide open) at 23 kHz, it is clear that power handling capability increased quite a bit as 6 uF series caps were used for both models. But this is not free lunch... this will reduce hf level too... this may be dullness you have experienced.

Crossover should not make big difference to LF performance, even higher frequencies do affect how we "hear" lower end of spectrum in music. Try find problem with signal generator, pure sine waves may show where the problem lies in LF. 40 Hz sine wave at high level will help to find leaks easily. Fragile tweeter flanges are no too easy to seal properly. Incorrect phasing can also lead loss of LF and other defects.

Best Regards

Kimmo

[VintageMan]

The crossovers where rebuild according to the schema I got from Kent + the parts advised by RoyC.

I think I will contact Kent, or if he read this, hope he will have some suggestion.

First thing I will do is check the crossovers for faults in the setup or used parts.

[RoyC]

The crossovers where rebuild according to the schema I got from Kent + the parts advised by RoyC.

I think I will contact Kent, or if he read this, hope he will have some suggestion.

First thing I will do is check the crossovers for faults in the setup or used parts.

The crossovers are not likely to be the cause of the problem, but check for mis-wiring.

Start with the basics...

-Make sure you are comparing the speakers in the same listening space.

-Make sure your speakers and your woofers are connected properly (like-polarity). Reversed woofer polarity will seriously affect bass response. Use a 1.5 volt battery (+ to + and - to -) and observe which way the woofer moves when connected to the speaker terminals. If one woofer moves inward and the other moves out when the same leads are touched to the same battery terminals, you will have identified the problem.

If the above items are OK, it could simply be differences in woofers. As advised earlier in the thread, switch out the woofers.

Roy

[VintageMan]

Busted!

The woofers where wrongly connected

Now they sound like they should (I think).

In any case much better then before.

Still I find the "regular" AR3a more my taste

[iso]

Double checking is good practice when doing something that you are familiar with. Checking everything three, four or even five times when doing something for the first time... will not be too much...

Best Regards

Kimmo

[owlsplace]

Busted!

The woofers where wrongly connected

Now they sound like they should (I think).

In any case much better then before.

Still I find the "regular" AR3a more my taste

Great ....

I have heard others say they prefer the earlier speaker also, I'm curious it that would still be the case with the drivers swapped. I imagine the ferrofluid in the 303's tweeters is starting to get a little stiff.

[taineasy]

I have an all original pair of AR3a Improved purchased by my father. I have had a pair of AR3a and AR11's but not at the same time. I found the Improved to sound similar to the AR11, although I think I prefer the non-ferrofluid tweeters in the Improved to the ones used in the AR10 and AR11 version. I do not play them loud so the higher wattage/volume capability of the AR11 does not mean much to me. I have left all the caps (all are original Sprague) original as they were all within spec. The tweeter/mid dispersion is much better on the Improved vs the AR3a as the baffle edge is very shallow. I did add some cotton/wool felt strips to the edges and between the tweeter and mid to further enhance dispersion. It does help. I have also added externally mounted super tweeters (university sound 4 ohm sphericon) with its own crossover (linkwitz at 14000 khz)) to add a touch of sparkle, which I use occasionally with some recordings. I have them in a well dampened room and generally have the crossover switched to the more lively setting. Question. My cabinets have a finish that I have never seen elsewhere and was wondering if anyone else has a similar finish on theirs. The original finish is Zebrawood.