Can an AR2a cabinet be modified to accept AR3a drivers?

[Nordschleife]

I have a spot in a bookcase that is wide & tall enough to house an AR2-series speaker almost perfectly, but my AR3a's are just slightly too big to fit. Auugh!

So... is it possible to make an AR3a's drivers fit inside an AR2ax cabinet?

Alternately, was the AR-3a Improved (european cabinet) version perhaps smaller than the original AR-3a version? Or are they exactly the same size?

I welcome your comments, ideas, suggestions. Thanks!

[VintageMan]

Alternately, was the AR-3a Improved (european cabinet) version perhaps smaller than the original AR-3a version? Or are they exactly the same size?

I don't think so looking at the AR3a and the AR3a Improved I have.

They look the same size.

[donquixote99]

Smaller cab will impact woofer performance, at least a little.

Rather than modifying speakers, what about modifying bookcase?

[ra.ra]

Despite the good intentions, this notion seems a bit far-fetched. Even with its flattened sides, it is doubtful if the 12" woofer would fit in a 2-series cabinet, and even if so, would require some serious carpentry skills (router mastery required) to re-shape the baffle cut-out and then to re-establish appropriate t-nut locations. The 12-inch 3-series woofer has 8 connectors, while the 2-series 10-inch woofer has only 6 or 4. And that is only for the woofer.

Similarly, outer diameters and screw patterns would need to be confirmed or reconfigured for mid and tweeter drivers. Even if all of this could be accomplished, dq99 is correct that reduced cabinet volume would have some degree of effect on overall performance.

Rather than modifying the bookcase or de-constructing a pair of AR-3a's, why not obtain some proper 2-series speakers that fit your situation "almost perfectly"? Sometimes the simple and obvious solution is the best.

[Nordschleife]

Thank you for your replies, much appreciated.

@VintageMan: thank you for letting me know the AR3a Improved cabinets are the same size as the standard cabinets. I was hoping that was an option but it sounds like a "no go".

I can't modify the bookcase, DonQ -- there is serious WAF resistance on this. But you're right... that's the obvious move.

@Ra.Ra: I have the carpentry skills and equipment to modify the baffle board/motorboard appropriately. The amount of work required is substantial to say the least. But I could do it. My main concern is fitting the woofer, which you also noted. It might be better just to construct new cabinets that fit & put AR3a drivers in them.

I have a pair of AR2a speakers in hand and have tried them out. They fit the bookcase opening perfectly (apx. .5" gap top and sides). Alone, the AR2a's sound pretty good once they're teamed with the Janszen 1-30 electrostatic mid-tweeter cabinets. As Ra.Ra says, maybe that's going to have to be good enough.

But... when I substitute the AR3a's for the AR2a's (and add the Janszens for the top end), the bass is notably deeper and it just plain sounds better to my ears.

For now, I'll use the AR2a's and give them an extended listen of 2 months. If that doesn't quite do it, I'll revisit this thread and get going on the AR3a's.

[michiganpat]

Thank you for your replies, much appreciated.

@VintageMan: thank you for letting me know the AR3a Improved cabinets are the same size as the standard cabinets. I was hoping that was an option but it sounds like a "no go".

I can't modify the bookcase, DonQ -- there is serious WAF resistance on this. But you're right... that's the obvious move.

@Ra.Ra: I have the carpentry skills and equipment to modify the baffle board/motorboard appropriately. The amount of work required is substantial to say the least. But I could do it. My main concern is fitting the woofer, which you also noted. It might be better just to construct new cabinets that fit & put AR3a drivers in them.

I have a pair of AR2a speakers in hand and have tried them out. They fit the bookcase opening perfectly (apx. .5" gap top and sides). Alone, the AR2a's sound pretty good once they're teamed with the Janszen 1-30 electrostatic mid-tweeter cabinets. As Ra.Ra says, maybe that's going to have to be good enough.

But... when I substitute the AR3a's for the AR2a's (and add the Janszens for the top end), the bass is notably deeper and it just plain sounds better to my ears.

For now, I'll use the AR2a's and give them an extended listen of 2 months. If that doesn't quite do it, I'll revisit this thread and get going on the AR3a's.

how much depth do you have? can you build new cabinets with added depth to keep the volume the same as a 3? conversely, what about adding a subwoofer with a low crossover point to augment the 2a's?

[donquixote99]

^^^That was an idea I had too. A cabinet has three dimensions. It's likely one of them is the 'problem.' Build a custom cab that's smaller that the Ar-3a where it needs to be, but enlarge one or two of the other dimensions, as you can, to maintain equal internal volume. That way you maintain bass performance, which is what the OP loves about the AR-3a....

Now if width is the problem, you may be in trouble. Can't really fit an AR-3a woofer into a narrower cabinet....

The subwoofer idea is a perfectly good one too. If you're not used to using subwoofers with music, you may not expect how well they can work. A good musical sub (not a mere thumper), properly set-up, does indeed give you augmented lows that seem for all the world to be coming from the mains. You in-head processor takes directional cues from higher frequences, and assigns them to the lows too. It's a totally-convincing illusion.

[dxho]

Measurements suggest the AR3a woofer is likely to fit the AR2ax cabinet.

The 2ax grille opening is 12"; the 3a grille opening and flat sides of the

woofer are both about 11-1/4". That woofer is 12" diameter otherwise-

vertical space on the 2ax cabinet looks adequate to handle it.