Jump to content

AR2 family of speakers, crossover network schematics


soundminded

Recommended Posts

OK, I got it. I found the wiring diagram for AR2a in the documents section and it was easy to understand...after I stood on my head for a while. Looks like three simple 6 db/octave series elements and both AR2a and AR2ax are the same. I've cleaned the pots with deoxit but I'm thinking maybe I'd be better off just changing them out for L-pads, 8 ohms I presume. Anyone have any thoughts or experience one way or the other?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

>OK, I got it. I found the wiring diagram for AR2a in the

>documents section and it was easy to understand...after I

>stood on my head for a while. Looks like three simple 6

>db/octave series elements and both AR2a and AR2ax are the

>same. I've cleaned the pots with deoxit but I'm thinking

>maybe I'd be better off just changing them out for L-pads, 8

>ohms I presume. Anyone have any thoughts or experience one

>way or the other?

Hi there;

If you are handy, pull the OEM pots apart again, Dremel wire brush the coils lightly, coat the coils with di-electric grease or Deoxit and enjoy.

Perhaps, as a thought, use automobile valve grinding compound.

Using a more aggressive sandpaper, or grinder wheel, the coils may cut and or expose more internal, un-coated wire, which may or may not attract more corrosion.

Also, the stator is really thin, an overly aggressive polishing may destroy it.

Another slightly more drastic approach, but, definitley the correct approach, is to replace them with brand new 15 ohm 25 watt potentiometers (see Carl's write-ups), not L-Pads.

Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another thought on cleaning the pot windings is to use a pink eraser. Non conductive and only abrasive enough to remove oxides. Personally, I'd opt for new pots rather than the open up and clean avenue and as Verne said, no L-pads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

>Another thought on cleaning the pot windings is to use a pink

>eraser. Non conductive and only abrasive enough to remove

>oxides. Personally, I'd opt for new pots rather than the open

>up and clean avenue and as Verne said, no L-pads.

Hi there;

A great and affordable suggestion, Pink Pearl.

There is the next level up or down, the darker eraser, used for ink.

I've never needed to clean a pot, they don't seem to be a problem, here in Vancouver, beside the Pacific Ocean.

I have read about several methods used and using a Dremel, seems to be to be most common.

Without first hand experience, I can't say, with any honesty, which is easier and better, in the long run.

Definitely, I see that having the pot on your bench, is much more accessible and convenient to be able to do a more thorough job, than mounted in the enclosure.

Particularly, if you have the no-rot surrounds, this repair, done right, will last for decades.

Where exactly did you find the AR-2A speaker schematic in the library?

Or do I need to clean my glasses again. lol

I did find the AR-2AX's, but, not the AR-2A's.

I am getting interested in AR-2's, AR-2A's and AR-2X's.

I would appreciate the schemetics for these as well.

This site wasn't available yesterday, I missed it, as did others.

Thank you, Mark, for your prompt work on the system.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
>Another thought on cleaning the pot windings is to use a pink

>eraser. Non conductive and only abrasive enough to remove

>oxides. Personally, I'd opt for new pots rather than the open

>up and clean avenue and as Verne said, no L-pads.

Hi there;

A great and affordable suggestion, Pink Pearl.

There is the next level up or down, the darker eraser, used for ink.

I've never needed to clean a pot, they don't seem to be a problem, here in Vancouver, beside the Pacific Ocean.

Or do I need to clean my glasses again. lol

I did find the AR-2AR-2A'sAX's, but, not the .

I am getting interested in AR-2's, AR-2A's and AR-2X's.

I would appreciate the schemetics for these as well.

This site wasn't available yesterday, I missed it, as did others.

Thank you, Mark, for your prompt work on the system.

Hi all,

I know this is older post but was wondering if anyone ever found the schematics for the 2A? The schematic for the 2AX in the library is not it, at least not what I saw in this box. I have had to open one, serial #D35520, to reglue the surround to the basket. I believe it had never been opened before.

While inside will tidy things up a bit. The interesting thing is the #2 post on the mid pot is vacant. Just wondering if this is common?

Thanks, PeteZ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...