wilsaxo Posted April 2, 2011 Report Share Posted April 2, 2011 Thanks to the info I've gleaned from previous Model Five recaps in this forum, I've acquired a pair that need it done and I'm about to tackle it. This is the first recap I've ever done. I've gotten the caps and was about to replace the first in the signal path and, surprise, it is the cardboard one marked SYNCHRO 2 X 4 MFD with 3 leads (2 red, 1 black). I take it that this is the 2 4uf caps in the schematic. How do I attach my 2 leads per individual 4uf cap to these 3 contact points from the old? Or, am I looking at this completely wrong?Kent, Carl, anyone?Cheers,David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlspeak Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 You twist one end of the two 4 uf caps together and that becomes the 'common' end and you now have three leads to connect in the xover. Attach the other two ends to the appropriate locations.Go Huskies! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilsaxo Posted April 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 You twist one end of the two 4 uf caps together and that becomes the 'common' end and you now have three leads to connect in the xover. Attach the other two ends to the appropriate locations.Go Huskies!While waiting for an answer I replaced all of the other caps. Then I sat and stared back and forth at the schematic and the crossover, tracing the signal and suddenly I knew what to do. I soldered away, loaded the crossover back into the cabinet, hooked up the speakers, connected it to an amp and happily am listening to it and it sounds great! Then I came back here to report my success.Thanks so much for the speedy reply anyway Carl! It was nice to come up with the same conclusion on my own, but so grateful knowing that you and other contributors on this forum would have my back if I remained stumped. Hey, without all of your previous posts I would have not even considered these great speakers from the past.Cheers,David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 Hi DavidGlad it worked out.btw--I just completed another pair of Five crossovers. Will post a photo. As I have mentioned before, I believe the 5 watt resistors used by KLH were inadequate. I've seen one scorched and one disintegrated 5-watt resistors in KLH Fives and Twelves. You might consider replacing the resistors. I like the Mills resistors from Parts Express, as shown in the pic.Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilsaxo Posted April 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 Hi DavidGlad it worked out.btw--I just completed another pair of Five crossovers. Will post a photo. As I have mentioned before, I believe the 5 watt resistors used by KLH were inadequate. I've seen one scorched and one disintegrated 5-watt resistors in KLH Fives and Twelves. You might consider replacing the resistors. I like the Mills resistors from Parts Express, as shown in the pic.KentHello Kent,I used the Carli caps from Madisound that you had suggested in a previous post as I needed to make this as frugal as possible. I even made the 25uf cap by combining the 15uf Carli and surplus 10uf (now at 60 cents) as you suggested. The resisters all seen to be fine, but I'll keep replacing them in mind for the future. Thanks for helping to make the process understandable.Now, for another question: What does the 3uf cap do? As in I forgot to include its replacement in my cap order, which I had only placed on Wed but happily received on Fri in time for the weekend. Impatience got the best of me and I replaced all of the caps except the 3uf. I've been listening to the speakers with the switches in their center (I assume flat) position and everything sounds fine. I'm a fan of not messing with tone controls and my Nain Nait 2 integrated amp doesn't even have any. Is the 3uf in the signal path in this switch position? David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 Hi DavidGlad to be of help.Now, first a disclaimer: I'm not a trained technician, just a retired guy having some fun, so I'm no expert. But I "think", based on my interpretation of the schematic, that the 3uF is not used when the switches are in their flat positions, so you're OK as far as that goes. The 3uF caps are in the tweeter circuit but can be switched out. One of the schematics in the Library was drawn by Carl, so he could give you a more authoritative answer as to whether the 3uF comes into play in the "increase" or "decrease" position.OTOH, why not do the job right? Especially if your 3uF caps are PVC--the black ones with red ends. They are absolutely, positively out of spec. I've even seen that kind of cap explode in a KLH Seventeen I know it's frustrating to place an order for $2 worth of caps and have to pay $10 (or whatever) shipping.If you want, send me a PM with your snailmail address. I have some yellow 3uF mylar caps from Madisound that probably cost me less than 50 cents each. I'll send you 2 in a padded envelope for whatever the price of postage is.Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilsaxo Posted April 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 Thanks Kent! I'll PM you. BTW I grew up in NJ, not the bear country part but the Pine-Barrens Tree Frog country dead in the middle of the state.David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilsaxo Posted April 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 Thanks Kent! I'll PM you. BTW I grew up in NJ, not the bear country part but the Pine-Barrens Tree Frog country dead in the middle of the state.DavidKent, I just tried to PM you but it said that you could not be PM'ed at this time.David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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