The Original New Large Advent Crossover.
Posted 02 April 2012 - 12:30 AM
The serial # are:-
A3 00104 4 pieces of foam.
A3 00195 5 pieces of foam.
A3 00237 5 pieces of foam.
A3 00244 4 pieces of foam.
So the question do I leave them as is, or do I rebuild with the later crossover settings?
Sorry for the poor quality picture.
Posted 02 April 2012 - 01:48 AM
Of course, it's up to you and I'm sure other will disagree but I would restore each one to the way it originally was manufactured.
It won't make that much difference anyway since Advent undoubtedly used capacitors with a tolerance that resulted in overlap with 12uF caps. even if they were marked 13uF.
Posted 02 April 2012 - 02:19 AM
Your four are all pretty early New Advents with those serial numbers because the New Advent sequence started with A300000. The A3 is not a model number or anything. The "A" just designates the full size Advent with a walnut cabinet. The "3" is actually just the first number of the serial number.
So, they orignally put 12uF caps. in them and two 1 ohm resistors and later changed to 13uF caps. and one 1 ohm resistor and one 1.5 ohm resistor. Actually pretty minor changes as I bet there are very few listeners who could ever tell the difference in sound between the different configurations.
Posted 02 April 2012 - 02:34 AM
Posted 02 April 2012 - 11:35 PM
I imagine they made the first two characters bold just to easily be able to tell them from original Advents at a glance, especially with the utility versions which are almost identical at a glance.
Because, officially, at that point in time, the model was still "The Advent Loudspeaker" as seen on the back plate, even though they probably should have put "The New Advent Loudspeaker" there.
The foam batting is a poser because it seems unlikely they would have listened to each speaker to determine how much to put into each one. You never know though.
How are the pieces arranged? Is there just a missing piece behind the woofer? Are the pieces otherwise identical in the different versions or are the pieces larger or different in the 4 piece versions?
Another possibility is somebody got into them earlier and removed a piece of foam in the 4 piece ones.
Posted 03 April 2012 - 02:04 AM
Posted 19 April 2012 - 07:46 PM
3 right under the woofer below the crossover and 1 goes almost to the tweeter above the crossover.
Posted 25 April 2012 - 03:10 PM
Found out how to attach pictures!
Posted 25 April 2012 - 03:30 PM
I'm still thinking whether or not to upgrade crossover on mine.
Mine look exactly like these.
Posted 25 April 2012 - 03:39 PM
Erse has the 13 uF caps. They aren't expensive.
What's holding you back?
Carl's Custom Loudspeakers
Posted 25 April 2012 - 07:35 PM
I just had these NLA's for less than a month and not sure if I want to keep them.
I'm starting to like their sound so hopefully I'll keep them and definitely re-cap.
I like the sound from NLA's as it is and replacing caps may or may not drastically improve sound.
Caps are not that expensive and resistors are even cheaper.
Erse charges $14 for s/h. I think that is too much for few pieces of caps.
Other sites like partsexpress charge less than $4 shipping.
I have Polk Monitors as well that I'm planning on capping and need to order caps/resistors together to avoid multiple shipping fees and get all of them done at once.
Posted 16 November 2012 - 03:10 AM
Posted 16 November 2012 - 04:57 AM
You should always go for a higher voltage rating for caps. It's perfectly fine, even desirable, to replace a 50 volt non-polarized electrolytic with a 100, 250, 600 or higher voltage film cap.
The resistors should be the same wattage as the originals except in cases where the originals were 5 watts--I would bump those up to 10 or 12. 10w seems to be standard. The problem with 25 watt resistors is they are just too big physically.
According to Pete's page http://baselaudiolab...VENT_LA_XO.html you need a 1.5 ohm and 1.0 ohm resistor, both 10w.
These Mundorfs are nice: http://www.madisound...undorf-10-watt/ and you can get your caps from them (Madisound) too. Try their "Surplus" caps. You can get a 10uF for 60 cents and a 2.7uF for 30 cents. A total of 12.7 is close enough, or add the 0.33uF GE cap for another 40 cents.
Parts express also has the parts you need.
Just remember: If you put capacitors in parallel you add the capacitance, so a 10uF + a 2.7uF will give you 12.7uF.
BUT combining resistors is WAY more complicated. My advice: don't do it. You can google the formulas for parallel and series resistors but just buy the correct values.
J. Kent Hollingsworth
Vintage system: DB Systems DB-lB/2A Preamp; DB-5 Tone control; DB-9 Headphone amp; Adcom 555/II amp, KLH Eighteen tuner; Tivoli CD; AR-3(a) speakers with MicroStatic supertweeters; AR-91 speakers; VMPS sub; AR-XA Turntable (awaiting restoration).
Home Theater speakers: Cizek KA-1 front; Cizek HTA rear; CSW Ambiance side; Minimus 7 (Zilch mod) front wide; Home brew front high; rbh center; CSW sub.
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