12 replies to this topic

[Tetrode]

What do you guys use?

[JKent]

I haven't used them, but from time to time there are stands on ebay that look nice. You can look for "Steel Speaker Stands 9.25"D X 11.5"W JBL ADS AR KLH Advent ". They are described as "Handcrafted Sand-filled Steel, Attractive Open Design" and the seller says his son, a welder, makes them. Might be just the thing.
Kent
PS: Just noticed he has a website: http://www.wix.com/deanv6/speakerstands

Edited by JKent, 20 April 2012 - 12:32 PM.

[genek]

I use those four-legged X-base AR stands..

[Tetrode]

I use those four-legged X-base AR stands..

Did you get yours from Vintage AR?

If so,how is the quality?

[xmas111]

Hi Tetrode,

If you interested in using the X-base stands, they're not to hard to make. I can give you the dimensions to build them.

I built a set early this year and they work very well. I think it cost me about $30.00 for the materials.

John

[genek]

I got mine from Larry a couple of years ago when he was making them from a stash of walnut lumber he had on hand (IIRC, he said something about a tree on his property falling). So they're solid walnut, compared to the AR originals, which appear to have been veneered. I think he's still making them solid, but from some other wood now and staining them walnut.

[xmas111]

Here's a couple of pics that give the dimensions of the stands if you think you might want to give it a shot.

I hope I've got everything right......did them from memory and my memory certainly what it use to be.....

John

[ironlake]

I got the square black ones from vintage ar, put 3/4 inch insulation tape on top of them and you can slide the heavy 3as on with not scratching the bottoms. They are very solidly built and look good with the black band around the bottom of the speaker,.

[dick]

Any comments on AR3a audio improvement with stands? Good as well for KLH 23's? Wood ones look readily made for a few cents -- oak or maple painted black perhaps...hard durable wood. Thanks for the nice photos.

[genek]

In most rooms, putting ARs directly on the floor will result in excessive bass boost and direct HFs that are aimed at the level of your waist rather than your ears. The HF issue is not as serious with the dome tweeter models as it is with the cone tweeter models, which can sometimes seem to lose their HFs altogether. Most of the people who have told me their ARs sounded "muffled" turned out to have them sitting on floors.

[oldguide]

Please escuse if this is too long or detailed. Many years ago I posted some ideas for stands for the AR3 and 3x. They are modeled after the AR factory stands with one tweak: I raised the posts above the height of the cross pieces so the speakers sit inside the stand. This makes them more stable--i.e. the speakers won't get knocked off the stands as easily.

Here are the directions. [Admin--if this is too long feel free to trim.]

The main trick is cutting the angle for the cross in the middle. You can use a dado blade or a cross cut/finish blade in a radial arm or table saw to notch out using two cuts and a chisel. The angle of those cuts is 15 degrees. You then notch half way through each piece and they slide together. You can glue them together or leave them unglued so they can be disassembled.

After that the rest is easy. The actual corner to corner dimensions on the AR3 are 18 inches, so I cut mine a half inch longer to allow 1/4 inch at each end for the raised corner. Use two by twos for the corner posts. Tyson Tom had mentioned 14 inches as a good height, so I cut mine 14 1/2 to get a raised corner the speakers sit inside. Interestingly I have built many speaker stands over the years for a variety of speakers and the rule I was always given was that the tweeters should be about ear height sitting in a chair. Tom's 14 inches is just right. I be;ieve he got the dimensions from AR.

Instead of mortising the corners, I wanted the look of the dowels. To do that I built a jig out of scrap lumber that clamped on the end of each one by four to be sure the holes were drilled exactly where I wanted them and the 1x4 was centered on the 2x2.

Below are instructions for two speakers.

MATERIALS:

OAK—OR OTHER—2 X2 SIX FOOT LENGTH (2)

OAK—OR OTHER—1X2 EIGHT FOOT LENGTH (2)

3/8” DOWEL ROD CUT TO 3”


ASSEMBLY ONE STAND:

Cut Four 2x2 each 141/2 to 143/4..

Cut two 1x2 each 20 inches. The corner to corner dimensions of the AR3 are 18 inches. I like to cut my notches first then cut the board to length.

The angle: This is really the only tricky part of the assembly. You are going to want to cut a notch half-way through each 1x2 so they slide together. If the AR base were a square not a rectangle you would cut the notch straight on each one, but the AR base is a rectangle so you need the proper angle. The angle for the AR3 is fifteen degrees set on a radial arm saw or if you are doing it by hand using a carpenters square draw to lines fifteen degrees. If you don’t have either you can actually set the 1x2s on an AR speaker, tweak them so they go corner to corner and draw the notch.

The notch will be ¾” (the width of a 1x2). You want it centered in the 20 inch piece. I used a dado cutting head on a radial arm saw. You could also just use a saw blade and cut twice or cut by hand. If you don’t use a dado head you will need to saw and then chisel out the notch. I usually start a little bit above where the bottom of the notch will be and work my way down.

Once you have the notches cut assemble the pieces. You want a snug fit, but not so snug that you can’t dissemble the pieces.

When you have the pieces fitting the way you want, then cut each 18 1/2. Remember to take an equal amount off each side or your notch will no longer be in the center. You can also test the dimension by laying the piece on the AR speaker and marking with a pencil, allowing 1/4” extra on each end.

I used dowels for attaching the 1x2s to the corner posts. You could also mortise or just glue and screw them. For screws, using a 3/8 inch drill bit you can also drill a hole ¼-3/8 deep into the post (use masking tape on the drill bit to set your depth), screw the pieces together and fill with wood putty or a plug so it looks like a dowel. Remember that you want to leave ½ to ¾ of an inch ABOVE the 1x2 the speaker sits on when attaching the corner posts. This gives you the stable platform.

Use whichever technique you like and that you have the tools for. There is no one right way to do this.

Assemble stands and enjoy.

I apologize for not having drawings, but graphics is not my strong suit.

[dick]

If height is the only parameter for a more pure 3a sound, then I should be able to set them up on blocks of wood, books, etc. to see if that 14+" height works for ears here. Separating speaker from floor by height is one thing. But also, per designs as mentioned above, by lots of air under the speaker is another matter. By not providing a large and dense route for sound to travel downward might also be a consideration. Anyone up on this?

[dick]

Here's the deal. Built the stands out of scrap hardwood, brought them into the house, set them up. The sound is nicely improved. Thanks to all for alerting me to this matter...and as I understand it, to Tom Tyson for rescuing AR criteria on the stands. The sound is a bit more articulate, and very nice. BUT! The dimensions of 'oldguide,' while resulting in a stable base, are a bit wide and result in stands that are, well, 'assertive.' Moreover, wife being comfortable with the previous on-floor speakers is in revolt over the new height and the now obvious aged (original!) linen fabric grille. I hedged my bet beforehand, though, making the stands 1/8" longer so they'd also fit the KLH23's out in the workshop/studio. They'll have a home there and be appreciated, so "Thanks!" oldguide.

Plan is to leave the stands under the AR3a's for a few days (more?) while I scratch my head for options. How about a narrower, smaller stand that would somehow (?) engage the 3a bottom, while having a wider base for stability? Wood is my material of choice as I'm not a metalworker. Old cloth might fade from sight, or sound improvement might triumph over it, but the stand needs some correction. Tap in bottom with screws that hold upside down cups into which fit hardwood piers? (Would this addition to bottom mess things up sonically?) And, how about lowering the speakers, as earlier post shows about 12"?

h.e.l.p. deeply appreciated!

Cheers, Dick