Good stands for the Ar3a
Posted 20 April 2012 - 12:29 PM
PS: Just noticed he has a website: http://www.wix.com/deanv6/speakerstands
Edited by JKent, 20 April 2012 - 12:32 PM.
J. Kent Hollingsworth
Vintage system: DB Systems DB-lB/2A Preamp; DB-5 Tone control; DB-9 Headphone amp; Adcom 555/II amp, KLH Eighteen tuner; Tivoli CD; AR-3(a) speakers with MicroStatic supertweeters; AR-91 speakers; VMPS sub; AR-XA Turntable (awaiting restoration).
Home Theater speakers: Cizek KA-1 front; Cizek HTA rear; CSW Ambiance side; Minimus 7 (Zilch mod) front wide; Home brew front high; rbh center; CSW sub.
Posted 20 April 2012 - 07:54 PM
I use those four-legged X-base AR stands..
Did you get yours from Vintage AR?
If so,how is the quality?
Posted 20 April 2012 - 08:42 PM
If you interested in using the X-base stands, they're not to hard to make. I can give you the dimensions to build them.
I built a set early this year and they work very well. I think it cost me about $30.00 for the materials.
Posted 20 April 2012 - 09:48 PM
Posted 20 April 2012 - 11:38 PM
I hope I've got everything right......did them from memory and my memory certainly what it use to be.....
Posted 21 April 2012 - 01:37 AM
Posted 21 April 2012 - 01:53 PM
Posted 21 April 2012 - 04:30 PM
Posted 21 April 2012 - 05:41 PM
Here are the directions. [Admin--if this is too long feel free to trim.]
The main trick is cutting the angle for the cross in the middle. You can use a dado blade or a cross cut/finish blade in a radial arm or table saw to notch out using two cuts and a chisel. The angle of those cuts is 15 degrees. You then notch half way through each piece and they slide together. You can glue them together or leave them unglued so they can be disassembled.
After that the rest is easy. The actual corner to corner dimensions on the AR3 are 18 inches, so I cut mine a half inch longer to allow 1/4 inch at each end for the raised corner. Use two by twos for the corner posts. Tyson Tom had mentioned 14 inches as a good height, so I cut mine 14 1/2 to get a raised corner the speakers sit inside. Interestingly I have built many speaker stands over the years for a variety of speakers and the rule I was always given was that the tweeters should be about ear height sitting in a chair. Tom's 14 inches is just right. I be;ieve he got the dimensions from AR.
Instead of mortising the corners, I wanted the look of the dowels. To do that I built a jig out of scrap lumber that clamped on the end of each one by four to be sure the holes were drilled exactly where I wanted them and the 1x4 was centered on the 2x2.
Below are instructions for two speakers.
OAK—OR OTHER—2 X2 SIX FOOT LENGTH (2)
OAK—OR OTHER—1X2 EIGHT FOOT LENGTH (2)
3/8” DOWEL ROD CUT TO 3”
ASSEMBLY ONE STAND:
Cut Four 2x2 each 141/2 to 143/4..
Cut two 1x2 each 20 inches. The corner to corner dimensions of the AR3 are 18 inches. I like to cut my notches first then cut the board to length.
The angle: This is really the only tricky part of the assembly. You are going to want to cut a notch half-way through each 1x2 so they slide together. If the AR base were a square not a rectangle you would cut the notch straight on each one, but the AR base is a rectangle so you need the proper angle. The angle for the AR3 is fifteen degrees set on a radial arm saw or if you are doing it by hand using a carpenters square draw to lines fifteen degrees. If you don’t have either you can actually set the 1x2s on an AR speaker, tweak them so they go corner to corner and draw the notch.
The notch will be ¾” (the width of a 1x2). You want it centered in the 20 inch piece. I used a dado cutting head on a radial arm saw. You could also just use a saw blade and cut twice or cut by hand. If you don’t use a dado head you will need to saw and then chisel out the notch. I usually start a little bit above where the bottom of the notch will be and work my way down.
Once you have the notches cut assemble the pieces. You want a snug fit, but not so snug that you can’t dissemble the pieces.
When you have the pieces fitting the way you want, then cut each 18 1/2. Remember to take an equal amount off each side or your notch will no longer be in the center. You can also test the dimension by laying the piece on the AR speaker and marking with a pencil, allowing 1/4” extra on each end.
I used dowels for attaching the 1x2s to the corner posts. You could also mortise or just glue and screw them. For screws, using a 3/8 inch drill bit you can also drill a hole ¼-3/8 deep into the post (use masking tape on the drill bit to set your depth), screw the pieces together and fill with wood putty or a plug so it looks like a dowel. Remember that you want to leave ½ to ¾ of an inch ABOVE the 1x2 the speaker sits on when attaching the corner posts. This gives you the stable platform.
Use whichever technique you like and that you have the tools for. There is no one right way to do this.
Assemble stands and enjoy.
I apologize for not having drawings, but graphics is not my strong suit.
Posted 22 April 2012 - 04:33 PM
Posted 27 April 2012 - 02:48 PM
Plan is to leave the stands under the AR3a's for a few days (more?) while I scratch my head for options. How about a narrower, smaller stand that would somehow (?) engage the 3a bottom, while having a wider base for stability? Wood is my material of choice as I'm not a metalworker. Old cloth might fade from sight, or sound improvement might triumph over it, but the stand needs some correction. Tap in bottom with screws that hold upside down cups into which fit hardwood piers? (Would this addition to bottom mess things up sonically?) And, how about lowering the speakers, as earlier post shows about 12"?
h.e.l.p. deeply appreciated!
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