Whats wrong with this picture?Model 17 capacitors
Posted 13 May 2012 - 10:55 PM
Have these speakers already been recapped?
This is what I was expecting to find, this pic from a post documenting a restoration of Model 17's.
Posted 14 May 2012 - 01:32 AM
Trace those wires and make sure there isn't another capacitor, either attached to the cabinet or just free-floating. In any case, the black and red PVC cap should be replaced because they tend to leak.
KLH made TWO different speakers, both called the Model Seventeen (no big deal--they made FIVE different Model Twenty-One radios!). If you search a bit you'll find some discussion about this on AK, maybe in the E-Wave thread. The later Seventeen had vinyl covered cabinets and a smaller tweeter, covered with what looked like chicken screening.
Hope this helps.
PS Found it. Check out this thread:
Edited by JKent, 14 May 2012 - 01:43 AM.
Posted 14 May 2012 - 04:02 AM
No other capacitor. Just whats in the picture.
So I just replace the black and red cap? It sure seems like something is missing. I'm a little confused
I found many different replacement suggestions for model numbers of caps on the web. Not sure which one is correct.
Can you suggest which one I replace it with?
Posted 14 May 2012 - 11:11 AM
Carl's Custom Loudspeakers
Posted 14 May 2012 - 02:45 PM
Don't I still have some missing components?
Posted 14 May 2012 - 02:51 PM
Here are before & after photos, including the exploded PVC cap, and a schematic.
Posted 14 May 2012 - 02:58 PM
Posted 14 May 2012 - 03:03 PM
Carl, are we talking about the same speaker? Kent
Ooops, my bad. Somehow I had NLA on the brain when viewing the OP. :-(
Carl's Custom Loudspeakers
Posted 14 May 2012 - 03:10 PM
3 ohm resistor
Posted 14 May 2012 - 04:01 PM
I'm a total newbie. This is my first restoration project. If these actually work when I'm done it will be a miracle.
Posted 14 May 2012 - 04:50 PM
2) 8uF capacitors
4) 2uF capacitors
4) 3 ohm 10 watt resistors
2) 7.5 ohm 10 watt resistors
Do you have a soldering iron (not gun)? Can you solder? If not, you can get away with crimp connectors or even wire nuts. Do ONE crossover at a time and change just one component (cap or resistor) at a time so you don't mix up the wires. The caps are non-polar so there is not "direction" to worry about. Same goes for the resistors and as I said, you don't HAVE to replace the resistors--I just found it easier than trying to save the old ones and you're talking about a total of about $2 worth of resistors here. OTOH, looking at your photo it may be easier to leave the original resistors. Take a look and see what works for you--wire wound resistors usually don't fail, unlike the PVC capacitors that are notorious.
Here is something else that may be confusing: that Whale cap attached to the switch has 2 red wires on one end and one black wire on the other. This is just two 2uF capacitors in one body. You will replace it with two separate 2uF caps. Call them A and B. One lead of cap A goes to one lug of the switch and one lead of cap B goes to another lug on the switch, then the "other" lead from A and B get tied together. This is clear in my "new xo" photo.
Don't hesitate to ask--there are no dumb questions (there are occasional dumb answers )
Posted 14 May 2012 - 06:44 PM
I'm going to order those components today and give it a go. At least I can't electrocute myself.
I may post some other questions when the time comes.
Thanks again for your kind help.
No I don't have a soldering iron, but I can get one easily enough.
I watched videos on how to do it.
Posted 14 May 2012 - 06:54 PM
This one too:
It's not hard. Main things are:
- Use the right tool (a pencil-type iron--not a gun)
- Keep the tip clean (wet sponge) and "tinned" with solder
- Be sure the wire is clean
- Heat the work (joint), not the solder
- Be sure the solder flows
- Keep the joint steady as you solder and while it cools--a "third hand" is handy
Posted 15 May 2012 - 10:55 PM
If you decide to order these cap's it is best to order them over the phone they don't really have online ordering. The service is very personal and very refreshing. I think these values are close enough, is this right JK?
2) 8uF capacitors 8.2uF / 250VDC, True Cap, (D: 21.1mm x L: 33mm) $2.48 each
4) 2uF capacitors 2.2uF / 250VDC, True Cap, (D: 13.9mm x L: 25mm) $1.41 each
Posted 15 May 2012 - 11:14 PM
Posted 16 May 2012 - 04:44 AM
Posted 16 May 2012 - 02:40 PM
That's interesting. I order from Mouser fairly regularly but never bought speaker resistors. The selection is mind-boggling and navigating through the filters can be daunting. I have not been able to find non-inductive wirewound ~10 watt resistors. Can you give us a part number or a link?
I was looking at Mousers and I found out Ohmite makes inductance free wire wound resistors, they are a little cheaper then the Mills.
Posted 16 May 2012 - 03:20 PM
note the Ohmite is not stocked. here is the page link the the 3 ohm 10 watt 5% non-inductive
The non-inductive resistors are "Power Resistors Wire Wound Silicon Coated"
Posted 22 May 2012 - 03:16 PM
Do the drivers need to be putty'ed in for a air tight seal to the cabinet? The woofer has a white foam gasket already. I have not removed the tweeter yet. Others I have read about have used plumbers putty to seal the drivers to the cabinet.
Posted 22 May 2012 - 04:25 PM
Should be no need to remove the tweeter unless that makes things easier for you.
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