11 replies to this topic

[JKent]

A really neat mini-monitor. I bought a pair of beautiful solid oak (not veneer) Ambiance speakers around 1990 IIRC and still use them as surround speakers in the home theater. The standard finish was "Nextel" and I had one of those, used as a center channel. These are so old, when I phoned CSW to ask if they had a schematic they said there was no such thing as an "Ambience" bookshelf (they use that designation for some ceiling speakers now). Had to send them a photo!

Here is a review from Stereophile: http://www.stereophi...0cam/index.html Here's an excerpt:

The Ambiance, Cambridge SoundWorks' second product, is a more conventional minimonitor that resembles a slightly larger-scale version of the Ensemble satellite. Though specifications and literature state that the Ambiance features a 6.5" woofer, this dimension misleadingly includes the mounting plate. The actual radiating diameter of the pulp cone is 4.5". Bass alignment is sealed-box or "acoustic suspension," while the tweeter is a ferrofluid-cooled unit with a plastic phase plate over the dome. A metal grille protects the drive-units, which are mounted on a slightly recessed baffle, while electrical connection is via gold-plated five-way binding posts on the rear. A "keyhole" is included on the rear panel to allow the speaker to be wall-mounted, and a rear brass bush is also fitted so that the Ambiance can be bolted to an optional stand. The review samples were finished in gray Nextel, but primed wood (ready for painting) and solid oak finishes are also available.

So I found a pair in Nextel on ebay for a low price. Over the years, the Nextel had been scratched and had turned kind of gummy. When I tried wiping them down with lacquer thinner, the Nextel came off!

Next step: Get out the paint stripper and have at 'em.

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[JKent]

After stripping the cabinets down to the primer (they are MDF) I re-did the crossovers. The original xo had 2 coils, 2 resistors and 3 caps. Don't know the values of the inductors--I just left them alone. The resistors were 5w so I decided to replace them--one 3.8 ohm and one 9 ohm. The caps were NPEs--two 6.8uF and one 10uF. I replaced those with film caps.

On my first try, I installed standard Dayton 10w resistors vertically, as the originals were, but later learned there was not enough clearance for the woofer! So I installed one Eagle 9 ohm that fit fine and wired the Dayton (it's a 3.9) to lie flat.

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[JKent]

So....how to replace the Nextel?

A trip to my local auto parts store turned up.......Truck Bed Liner! It sprayed on easily and made a black nice textured finish. It must be durable if it's used as truck bed liner.

I like the look. And they sound great!

I may use the Truck Bed Liner spray to re-do the rubbery finish on the "plinth" of my AR turntable.

Kent

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[ra.ra]

Nice little speaker restoration, Kent. I love the fact that you had to explain to the manufacturer about one of their products.

If I read this correctly, the crossover boards are fully removable with 6 screws each - - - I like this convenience - - - especially for this x-o with relatively many components. Are these wood screws directly into the MDF rear panel or machine screws with t-nuts? And, is there a gasket seal between x-o board and rear cabinet panel? Stuffing?

I have used this paint many years ago for other types of projects - - - I think at my local auto parts stores it was called "trunk paint", but I just called it "spatter paint" because of the small flecks of contrasting color - - sorta hard to see in your pics. My recollection was that it came in three flavors: black with grey flecks; black with green; and grey with white.

[JKent]

Thanks!
Yes--the xo board comes out with 8 wood screws, screwed directly into the MDF. The pc board is attached to the Masonite plate by way of the 2 banana jacks at one end and a dab of hot melt glue at the other. There is a thin gasket that I did not replace--maybe should have. Stuffing is nice non-itchy polyester (?) fiberfill.

This is not trunk paint. No speckles. Rustoleum Truck Bed Coating: http://www.rustoleum...uct.asp?pid=367 It goes on thick and is sort of rubbery with a very definite texture. You can search YouTube for "Rustoleum Truck Bed Coating" for more info.

I used Rustoleum gray sandable primer first. Unfortunately the black color does not photograph that well.

Kent

[ra.ra]

OK, my mistake - - - we're definitely talking about different paint products, and this Rustoleum looks interesting. I did happen to find the stuff I was referring to, and lo and behold, my memory was actually correct regarding the color options.

http://www.duplicolo...s/trunkSpatter/

...... and here's Dupli-color's bed liner paint

http://www.duplicolo...edArmorAerosol/

[JKent]

Well, now that the project's done, I see it was NOT an original idea! There is discussion on the PE Tech Talk forum regarding bed liner, and some nice photos. Some people apparently prefer the Duplicolor stuff but I was very satisfied with Rustoleum. There are other brands, too, including Rhino, and a product specifically marketed for coating speaker cabs, called Duratex, but it's about 8 or 9 times the price of the Rustoleum! http://www.speakerha...spray-grade.php

[lifeinchords]

Hi Jkent.. I also just got an old pair of these.. haven't tried plugging in em yet, but they def need work on the outside, plus they seem to strong mold/mildew odor. Do you think I can follow your process to save their cabinets, or should I just gut them for the parts and build my own?

Curious how you got em open.. haven't spent time yet trying but a quick scan and they seem quite sealed.
-S

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[JKent]

Hi and welcome!
You have to pry the metal grilles off. They have some black goop in the corners but if you are patient you can put an awl or similar tool in a hole and pull. Then go to the opposite side. Eventually you can pull it off. Don't be over-enthusiastic or you may bend the metal.
Once that's off, the woofer and tweeter unscrew, allowing you to get inside. Put the drivers aside, pull out the stuffing. Find the smell. You can wash the cabinets with a bleach/water solution (remove the crossover first) and if the poly stuffing is smelly replace that with an equal amount from a craft or fabric store.
I've become a big fan of the truck bed liner. It's similar to the original Nextel in appearance, and it's very tough. I'm in the process of fixing up an Advent 400 radio that was extremely yellowed from age and UV exposure. The truck bed stuff ain't authentic but it looks pretty good IMHO. When I get around to the receiver cabinet I'll post photos.
OTOH, if you are an expert woodworker you could build new cabinets. I have some Ambiance speakers that are solid oak with finger-jointed corners. They look very cool.
Good luck.
Kent

[bostown]

Hi Jkent.. I also just got an old pair of these.. haven't tried plugging in em yet, but they def need work on the outside, plus they seem to strong mold/mildew odor. Do you think I can follow your process to save their cabinets, or should I just gut them for the parts and build my own?

Curious how you got em open.. haven't spent time yet trying but a quick scan and they seem quite sealed.
-S

Unless the cabinets are splitting or show signs of damage, you should be able to clean off the old Nextel paint . Paint stripper works well. ( either the gel type or denatured alcohol worked for me). Access to the drivers - Use a credit card to get the grills off or a spatula , I've used a paper clip through the grills as well) they are held in place by some type of tacky putty along a few edges.

The mildew smell should go when you get the paint off. Before you go through all of that. Plug them in and make sure they work

[bostown]

I have some Ambiance speakers that are solid oak with finger-jointed corners. They look very cool.
Good luck.
Kent

The Oak cabinet version are by far the nicest of the Ambiance line ( there was also a calcium injected ABS cabinet "outdoor" Ambiance) . A set of the Oak Ambiance on the original CSW Tripod Stands look Sharp!

[lifeinchords]

awesome... thanks all. Soon to be a nice rainy day project... will post back with progress..
-S