The "sealed shut 6's", any trick to getting the back off?.
Posted 29 June 2012 - 04:27 AM
Two basic options: cut the back open, or chip out the glue behind the terminal plate and reach in. I've seen at least one comment that the glue can also be melted by a heat gun.
Here's a thread on some Model Fours, but it's basically the same for the Sixes. (Scroll back to the first post in the thread for pictures).
Posted 30 June 2012 - 01:20 AM
Really need in there to upgrade caps, etc.
As a point of interest, the early AR-LST speakers had the crossover board rear mounted in a routed out recess.
It would allow one to service the crossover, re-fasten and seal the enclosure and still allow for future access.
I originally suggested sabre-sawing a sharp angled circular cutout which could still be re-fastened and sealed.
The LST is a more secure and professional job, IMO.
Posted 04 March 2013 - 04:01 AM
Don't try to melt the glue unless you want to disassemble the entire cabinet, top, bottom and sides. The back has a tongue all around it that fits into a groove in the sides, top and bottom. I just finished replacing the capacitors in my early '60's sealed 6's. On one I cut the back out by drilling a hole near the edge of the back and cutting with a saber saw. The second I did by removing the connection plate and chipping out the epoxy. I had to reach in to replace the large capacitor since it was mounted on the front plate, but was able to do so even though I had to do it one handed and blind.
Posted 07 March 2013 - 03:44 AM
edit...just read your longer post, now it makes sense.
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