4 replies to this topic

[coner]

Really need in there to upgrade caps, etc.

[dxho]

Two basic options: cut the back open, or chip out the glue behind the terminal plate and reach in. I've seen at least one comment that the glue can also be melted by a heat gun.

Here's a thread on some Model Fours, but it's basically the same for the Sixes. (Scroll back to the first post in the thread for pictures).

[dynaco_dan]

Really need in there to upgrade caps, etc.

Hi there

As a point of interest, the early AR-LST speakers had the crossover board rear mounted in a routed out recess.

It would allow one to service the crossover, re-fasten and seal the enclosure and still allow for future access.

I originally suggested sabre-sawing a sharp angled circular cutout which could still be re-fastened and sealed.

The LST is a more secure and professional job, IMO.

[WoodGuitar]

Don't try to melt the glue unless you want to disassemble the entire cabinet, top, bottom and sides. The back has a tongue all around it that fits into a groove in the sides, top and bottom. I just finished replacing the capacitors in my early '60's sealed 6's. On one I cut the back out by drilling a hole near the edge of the back and cutting with a saber saw. The second I did by removing the connection plate and chipping out the epoxy. I had to reach in to replace the large capacitor since it was mounted on the front plate, but was able to do so even though I had to do it one handed and blind. 

[alkermes]

Why the change of approach? Do you recommend one over the other?

edit...just read your longer post, now it makes sense.