dxho

The switch only controls access to resistors. The caps aren't part of the switch circuitry; they're always 'on'. Or so it looks to me.

Decrease pulls all 3 resistors in; normal bypasses the 7.5 ohm resistor; and increase bypasses one of the 3 ohm resistors and the 7.5 ohm unit.

I've seen this mentioned, but haven't seen any further discussion. A problem still exists in links to images in older posts that are supposed to be cached on the CSP server. I'm guessing it was one or two server upgrades ago. Embedded pictures may be okay.

Here's a random example from 2005:

http://www.classicsp...eter#entry57210

Already sold.

Nice catch. These are such agreeable speakers.

Check the library here for the AR3a restoration guide. That will answer most of your questions.

In your position, I'd probably just use a piece of masonite, or something like that, close to the original thickness, to replace the pot mounting board. You don't say; I'm assuming the rest of the crossover is in place?

'Capacitors' is almost a religious discussion. Plenty of conversation here if you dig through what's been posted.

Pots come up fairly regularly on ebay, if you want originals, and there are equivalent aftermarket bits available.

I recommend an original model with a bigger woofer, if you're looking for bass extension. The AR2ax is plentiful, sounds wonderful, and can be acquired on a budget, if it matters. For that lowest ~octave, the AR3 or 3a is probably the best bet. Any other 12" AR speaker is generally much rarer and/or more expensive.