worldwidehoodoo

You've got tubes with no cathode followers which indicates that
it is a high Z circuit.  Use the 2.2K design, or the values from the
tables but multiply the resistors by 10, and divide the cap values
by 10 which will raise the impedance to 22K which is a good
match for tube circuits.

thanks, and sorry for the belated reply...rough weekend!

if i multiply and divide the components i come up with following for a 4db attenuation:


R1 = 22 K, C1 = .001
R2 = 35k, C2 = .01

is this correct?

would it be worth it to also build one with the original values to compare, or will the "multiplied" version be way better?

thanks again.
-mike

My meters are Fluke and unfortunately they are not inexpensive,
but they are the best IMO.
I'm hearing fairly good things about Mastech but I have no experience with them:
http://www.diyaudio....tml#post2144876

That is a tube amp I take it?  If so you want a much
higher impedance.  Do you have a link to the schematic?

More power is also better, say 50 to 100W

yes, the hh scott lk 48 is an integrated tube amp.  

schematic:
http://hhscott.com/pdf/fs/222C-C1.JPG

The woofer inductor is probably too low for you to read
on a 200 ohm full scale meter.  I doubt there is a problem
with it.  There was no need to desolder it, just pull the red
positive woofer lead - assuming you still have the push on
terminals.

I said you were in the ball park, at least the other tweeter
is not an open circuit.  I do not think that 2.9 ohms is normal
but I do not have a large sample set and all of these speakers
have seen production changes so who knows?  What reading
do you get, for each one, going on the other side of the rivets?
Also try to measure all the resistors in case one has gone out
of spec.  You can just pull the yellow lead from the tweeter to
measure the resistors and set the switch to decrease.

Also, does your meter zero reliably?  Not to be critical but it
could be operator error.

You're welcome and I hope you do try the BSC.

ha ha! did you know that my middle name is "operator error"?

i don't think that 2.9 is normal, either.  weird thing is that the "abnormal" speaker sounds better!

i've replaced the caps and resistors in both XOs..the only original remains are the inductors and the switches.  all new components are brand new from sonicraft...tested them all before installing, and they are all soldered in the right place.  

now, in the back of "bad" driver there is some weird residue/oxidation of some sort...though it looks like it's been there a long time.  regardless, it tests in spec.  

as for the meter....it never shows zero in the ohm setting...it has a 1 at the far left, and then the decimal moves depending on which setting you choose.  if you can recommend a good, cheapo meter that does what it should for this application, i'm all ears.  

NOW....ONTO THE BSC!
i've looked through the thread, and it looks like something i can build pretty easily.  i'm pretty excited about it, to tell you the truth!

i'm running an HH scott lk-48 integrated (48-watt, 20wpc rms)  into the NLAs.  it has a tape monitor, so we should be good to go.

my question:  should i do the 2.2k version, or the 4.7k?

it looks like another person in the thread made a box with switches for each db step.  i'd really like to do this, but without a picture to go from it would be tough for me.  i'd have to sit down and actually learn how to wire something up like that, and i don't have the time do that right now.  SO, unless you happen to have such a picture....which db step would be the most appropriate for the system i'm running?

thanks again! can't wait to try out the mod.

The woofer inductor has a DC resistance of about .36 - .38 ohms,
as you can see in section 3.1 here:
http://baselaudiolab...VENT_LA_XO.html

Just remove the woofer connection and as long as only one lead is connected
to the XO you will get a good reading.

i disconnected the woofer and desoldered one of the inductor leads from the XO.  i couldn't get any type of reading, but i think this is either a problem with my meter or me (most likely me!)

i'm using an ESUN DT830 digital multimeter, which under the "ohm" setting has stops for 200, 2000, 20k, 200k, and 2000k.  i tried them all and got nothing.  

again this is probably a malfunction with yours truly, as i assume if the inductor was "dead" the woofer wouldn't make much sound.  am i wrong?  

Actually, as I stated earlier 2.2 to 2.5 ohms is what I usually read for NLA
tweeters so it is odd that your bad one is actually in range.

i understand that, but i don't understand why if one reads 2.9, and the other reads 2.3 they are both in "in spec".  is the 2.9 out of spec? i'm asking this more for my own curiosity than anything else...just trying to wrap my head around the range of readings that are considered "normal".  if the typical reading is 2.2 - 2.5 ohms, what reading would give you pause?

again, i'm just curious/"thinking out loud" so to speak....

thanks so much for your help/advice.  i'm circling the wagons on the BSC box as we speak, so i may bug ya some more!

forgot to ask:

what should the inductors read, and do i need to remove them from the circuit for an accurate reading?  i did some serious listening today with a wide range of music, and noticed that some of the difference is in the low end as well.  

thanks
-mike